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My recent trip to Asia before my next trip to Asia (in two weeks) found me in Korea, and as I usually find myself, surrounded by a significant quantity of fine wines. This particular evening was all about Bordeaux, 1995 vs. 1996 First Growths, to be exact. It was a great mix of people, mainly young professionals very eager to taste these distinguished wines, and very eager for Korea to lower its somewhat prohibitive tax on wine.

We started with the Haut Brions, and the 1996 Haut Brion had a fresh, waxy nose, spiny and full of cassis, tobacco and nut, but wax was the dominant aroma. A pinch of green bean and a hint of chocolate rounded out the nose. The palate had lots of tobacco flavors with a hint of banana split, very dry but lighter than I expected. There were nice cherry traces on its finish, and solid earthy flavors. Its acidity was also solid, but the body was definitely light and its dryness a bit out of balance. It was still excellent, a clean and jerk type of wine, still with upside potential but definitely not an elite Haut Brion (93+).

The 1995 Haut Brion was much more cotton-candied in its nose, sweet and fragrant with a touch of pruny goodness. There was also wax, and earth and dust joined the party. The palate was more balanced, also with tobacco flavors and an earthy dryness, but better balanced with its cherry fruit and gamy flavors. At first, I preferred the 1995, but ultimately gave a slight edge to the 1996. It would be a recurring theme (93).

The 1996 Latour had a much deeper nose than either of the Haut Brions, brooding but also a bit horsey at first. There were pencil and black fruits behind that and a touch of toll house. The palate was big yet refined, with laser-like acidity yet still full of finesse. There were nice chalky flavors on its finish, along with animal and tobacco flavors. Someone with their Palm Parker out hailed it as ‘near-perfect’ lol. It got szechuany in the nose, losing its animal and green edges to become just what Goldilocks ordered (96+).

The 1995 Latour was rounder and more honeyed in its nose, with touches of cola and a hint of syrupy sweetness. It was perfumed in an angel food cake way. The palate was sturdy and rugged, also leathery and big overall. There were stewed flavors of black cherry and cola, and its stewed qualities were those of beefy goodness. However, the 1995 did lose a step in the glass compared to the 1996 (94).

The 1996 Mouton Rothschild was spiny and waxy, a la the Haut Brion. There was also plenty of cassis, or this black, perfumed fruit. ‘Chocopuffy’ was a new word that came to mind. Carob and caramel were also here in a ‘Milky Way’ way. The palate was very spiny and waxy as well; the acidity really stood out. Excellent flavors of cassis, dry blueberry, earth and leather were complemented by a hint of green. The wine stayed spiny, but it also got greener (94+).

The 1995 Mouton Rothschild was a bit Caliesque like a great Screamer. It was rich, lush and creamy with nice spice and exotic truffles and candied something. Powder also came to mind. There were delicious coffee flavors with the griiind, and the palate was rich upfront but soft on the backside. There were excellent flavors with nice roasted edges. I finally wrote that 1995s were better now, but that 1996s were better long term, although the Mouton ended up being a dead heat (94+).

The 1996 Lafite Rothschild left no doubt as to who was in charge, at least up until now. It was a lean, mean fighting machine! It was waxy and spiny like the other 1996s, but also elegant city. There was pungent anise to go with emerging cassis and nut aromas. Lit kindling and cedar joined the party in secondary fashion. The palate was super rich ”“ finally a 1996 with upfront density! It was not only rich, but also big and thick in the mouth, and its acidity was clearly the best of the bunch, so fine yet so sharp, as in ‘on point.’ There were green flashes like lantern, and its finish was precise, linear and singular in its greatness (97+).

The 1995 Lafite Rothschild had a tough act to follow. Its nose was one of baked chocolate croissant and deep cassis and plum. It still had a meaty nose, full of iron and more chocolate, yet it still retained a perfumed-like elegance. The palate was softer and more caressing, and the finish left a soft impression as well. The 1995 was a bit ‘lite,’ especially after the 1996, dry and a touch out of balance like the Haut Brion, still excellent but not as special after the 1996 (93).

Our last pair was Margaux, beginning with the 1996 Margaux. The Margaux nose was super sexy, jumping out of the glass with its candied edge, almost like a root beer float without the root beer. Make that an ice cream soda, that’s what it was, black ‘n white with a little egg cream. The nose was toasty, spicy and spiny, full of coffee, nut and leather aromas, with enough t ‘n a for an S & M dungeon. The palate was thick and long with great acidity, and flavor and aromas of beef bouillon complicated matters in this complex wine (97).

The 1995 Margaux was the best 1995 with its honeyed and caramel nose that was rich, meaty and sexy. A whiff of wood, mainly cedar, rounded it out. The palate was full of roasted cassis flavors and length. Interestingly enough, the 1995 was already throwing a ton of sediment (95).

It was back to the USA, where I would be quite busy at night for the next couple weeks”¦