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One of the most spectacular events of the year make that my life – was a recent vertical of Chateau Margaux held in New York City. The event was held over two-days at 11 Madison and Per Se, and it spanned over a century of Margaux back to 1900, with all bottles sourced from a single, Northern European cellar. While Burgundy has stolen the spotlight this Fall, this was an event that reminded me that nothing can age quite like Bordeaux. With Paul Pontallier, Chateau Margaux’s managing director and Bordeaux ambassador extraordinaire, in attendance to lead us, this was an event fit for a king, and a strong statement by Bordeaux that it will always be king.

I unfortunately missed the Saturday evening session, as I was in Chicago hammering down a few million of wine. Duty called, but there was no way I would miss Sunday’s session. It isn.t easy waking up at 6am after an evening auction; in fact, it is brutal, and I almost missed my flight back to New York. Were it not for the help of a couple of Angry alums, I might not have made it. Basically, I had to hand off my luggage at the check-in curb at the last second, and I just made my flight back to New York. I wasn.t the only one to fly into New York for this event. People came from all over America, Europe and even as far as Hong Kong and Korea. I arrived to Per Se in the nick of time, and while my sea legs weren.t exactly with me upon arrival, after one sip of Margaux, I instantly felt better.

The Sunday session featured wines from 1900 to 1959, twenty-nine years in total, including many super-rare and impossible-to-find vintages that many have already written off. If there is one lesson to be learned from this event, it is something that I say over and over: the greatest producers make great wines every year. Even Paul would later say that this was the greatest Margaux event of his life, admitting he had to re-write the Chateaux’s own notes on some of the obscure vintages. Dare I say that Acker events rewrite wine history?

You know it is a historical event when the first wine of the tasting is from 1907, and the 1907 Margaux was an omen of the good things that would continue to come. Pavillon Rouge was actually created in 1907, as a result of all the young vines at the time, due to the phylloxera outbreak of the late 19th Century, of course. The 1907 had a pleasant nose, still fresh with its rosy fruit. Its aromas were quite complicated, with leather, strawberry fields and glazes of toffee and citrus. The wine was incredibly exotic, and a touch of tea rounded out its surprisingly vibrant nose. Its flavors were not full of fruit and were more in the citrus and tea directions. There was nice flesh to its body still, and flavors of dry cherry and glue emerged. It was almost Burgundian. per one, having a Barolo color. per another. Say what you will, but this 1907 lasted in the glass and was an excellent beginning to this legendary afternoon (93).

The 1908 Margaux was clearly a reconditioned bottle, with a much darker color, and lots of vanilla and nut on top. It was fuller and fresher, but a bit square. I think I have gone on the record that there ain.t nothing like the real thing, aka an original bottle. I am fairly certain that after years of experimenting, most Chateaux would now agree (85).

While The Cardinal was not in attendance, we did have The Bishop instead. Quite good, he commented about the 1909 Margaux. Its nose was creamier, a vanilla city built on great, mild and mature cassis. Dapper Dave noted, Absolutely fantastic. You can smell the velvety texture.. This was a classic; it was round, soft, balanced, elegant and smooth. Paul concurred, admiring its balanced, elegant, sweet finish. (93).

The 1910 Margaux had a deep nose that was more in the purple and black direction, with supporting tea, chocolate and vanilla aromas. The palate was lean and a bit unyielding. Even Paul found it, short and acidic. (88).

The 1915 Margaux had this weird banana butter nose. It was way too oaky and a bit brutal, probably an off bottle (NR/DQ?)

However, the 1917 Margaux brought our first flight to a close in fine fashion. It had a gorgeous nose, full of musky elegance. Its palate was round, lush and tender, inviting like a trip to Grandma.s. This was classic in every sense of the word. Paul hailed it, best of the flight, still power and freshness.. I seconded that emotion (94).

I must say, for a series of random, ancient vintages that were not historically significant, that first flight was impressive. It set the tone for the rest of the afternoon, and each flight added more and more to Margaux’s legend. The 1922 Margaux that led off the next flight was stunning. 1922? I don.t even think I have even had a wine from 1922 in my life, that’s how rare or how little regard there was for the vintage. The nose was nutty, with sweet caramel kisses and oats in there. Its aromatics were very open and forward; this was a wine where any guy would immediately think he has a chance, and that’s a good thing. The palate was rich, beefy, brothy and chocolaty. Brawny and tasty, the 1922 had flavors of wheat, chocolate and saddle sweat, and a great, dusty finish. Paul noted a touch of benevolent oxidation, and Magnum Mark had it in first place for the flight (94).

Another obscure vintage was the 1925 Margaux, and it was even more stunning. 1925? Come on, you mean 1928? 1929? Wow. Its nose was so different, full of mint and olive, deep and enticing. The palate was soft and seductive in a very velvety way, unfolding into this creamy and toasty finish. There was great flesh and nice smack to its finish. Black cherry and cassis took over, spilling out of the glass in a tasty, taste me way. The finish got thicker, and we were officially in outstanding territory. I should note that Magnum Mark found it, a little sugary. (95).

We continued with the 1936 Margaux, another vintage that basically doesn.t exist anymore. It had a dirty nose with a bit of 1915 in there with its oaky fruit and mild banana and caramel aromas, along with a touch of celery, and I hate celery. Talk about one of the vilest vegetables on the planet! If I was a superhero, one of my arch-nemeses would have to be Dr. Celery, who would of course be funded by Lord Overoaked, but I digress. Mr. Wine Vegas observed, rosehips and aged cranberry.. The palate was ok, drinkable and pleasant, more so than the nose. It was a bit waxy, and my last note summed it up best, I could still drink a bottle of this on my own, which is my version of inspected by number 12. lol (88).

The 1937 Margaux had a mild and clean nose with aromas of light earth and a bit of bread. The palate was lean and pleasant, a touch chalky at first, but clean and fresh with a dry finish (92).

The 1942 Margaux was a wow wine, seconded by Gil, who was practically shrieking over it. The nose was nice, but the palate is what set this vintage apart. Aromas of spice, chocolate, hay and fireplace set the stage for the big show. The palate was delicious, rich and amazing&.so chocolaty, I wrote. It was full-bodied and long, quite balanced given its heady fruit. Not that it’s that unusual, but Gil could not stop talking about this monumental wine.. He continued, one for the historical perspective, adding the best bottle of 1942 that I have ever had.. Ok, ok, we get it (96).

The last wine of this extraordinary flight was the 1951 Margaux. Paul was immediately smitten by this archetypical. Margaux. He admired its elegance, softness and freshness without being too acidic.. It was another sweet core in the nose, but in a more perfumed way. It, too, was delicious, delivering plenty of cassis flavors, supported by a touch of chalk. This was sexy and juicy, and Gil was back with sweet tobacco and truffle, and amazed at this wine, because it was from a truly shitty vintage.. We here at Acker always prefer a shitty Truly vintage lol. This was another wow. wine, especially given the vintage (94+).

Most were in the 42 and 22 camp, although the 25 and 51 certainly got a lot of attention. Almost the entire flight was spectacular. Dapper Dave summed it up, every bottle was as good as it could be, and Aurelien added, all of them give pleasure.. We had just finished the second flight of six. Could we be in for a letdown the rest of the way? The beginning was far too story book. for this continue, could it possibly?

The next flight began with the 1905 Margaux. Truffles. were immediately noticed, and its nose was hailed as mind-blowing.. There was great musk and spice aromatically. The palate was soft and tender, with nice spice as well. Light citrus abounded, and its finish was pretty. Paul found it to be built like a modern Bordeaux, and later added he thought it was wine of the day so far! The 05 Latour I had the night prior wasn.t nearly as good, oh yeah, that was 2005, oops (94).

The 1918 Margaux had a milky, nutty nose with aromas more on the milk chocolate side. The Fink noted, perigord truffles and cumin, while I was stuck on my nuts. That probably didn.t come out right. There was excellent balance to this World War I wonder (93).

The 1919 Margaux was unfortunately shot, complete vinegar. It was like biting into a lemon. Hey, it happens. Get over it, and move on (DQ).

1933 is another vintage rarely seen today no matter what the region, and the 1933 Margaux was up to the challenge of resurrecting its vintage’s reputation at this last chance corral. Gil noted, old Burgundy, and The Fink sous bois.. The 33 had the same mint and olive combination of the 25. Its fruit was big, black and chocolaty, with a buttery and rich personality. Olive and mint joined the palate as well in this excellent red (93).

Only seven years separated all the wines in the next flight, and we started with the 1943 Margaux. It had a wafery nose, mild yet rustic. There was a touch of mint lingering here, in a leaf way. This was a bit of a bruising Margaux by its usual, charming standards, and clearly the most powerful and muscular of the day so far. The length goes on and on, cooed Magnum Mark. This was a healthy combination of power and acidity, and another great showing for another wartime vintage (95+).

The 1946 Margaux was from a high-acid year, per Paul. You could see that right away. It was nice but a touch square and zippy, a touch bitter but sturdy. Someone called it, sharper than 1948. (91).

The 1948 Margaux had pleasing aromas of wafer and bread along with forward cassis and a hint of tobacco. There was great nuttiness here, but its palate was a bit sweet, almost cough syrupy. It had a full, gritty finish but was a touch medicinal (90).

The final wine to this flight had Paul a bit disappointed. at first, as the 1950 Margaux is a wine he knows well and loves. However, with time in the glass, the wine became outstanding, finishing strongly. Dapper Dave noted, dry cigar paper, while Magnum Mark added, a satisfying, rich robe. of a wine. The aromatics unfolded into freshness and greatness, with zip and the doo-dah to go with it. The palate was very tasty with sweet fruit and a great mid-palate. A touch of swimming pool was not enough to keep me out of this creamy and tasty red, which I found to be a Miss Congeniality. of a wine (95).

The fifth flight began with the 1921 Margaux, a veritable liquid gourmet Cheeseburger, per Gil. Dapper Dave agreed, finding it definitely most meaty.. Once the cheeseburgers were gone, there was great dust and spice to its superbly floral and perfumed nose, leading one to call it, the perfect nose that is Chateau Margaux.. The palate was clean and bright, fresh, long and elegant, while the nose got dustier. The bottle was hailed as pristine, and its citrus elements were still fresh from the tree, so to speak. Paul loved the tenderness, and its acidity, freshness and power. (93).

The 1934 Margaux was unfortunately a touch corky, although we could see the sweet fruit underneath its corkiness. 1934 will always be a vintage close to my heart, as that is when Prohibition was ended, and when grandpa bought into Acker. Although I must confess, 1934 is all about the Burgundy. Paul instructed that 1934 has always been powerful and tannic. (93A).

The 1952 Margaux had a clean nose, with again a touch of pool. Aromas of rock and rose were on display from this tannic vintage. It had a dry finish accordingly, and got at least one spectacular. from the crowd. It remains an underrated vintage, especially in the Right Bank, where the wines can be truly special (93).

The seemingly three-way tie was broken with the last wine of the flight, an outstanding 1955 Margaux. The nose was a touch grassy at first, but that aired into these aromas of outdoor goodness. The palate was pure 1955 deliciousness, delivering a rich, tasty, lush and long experience. Heady and delicious, I wrote twice. The wine was even better with the rib-eye beef dish from the kitchen. Flavors of wheat and chocolate went on and on, supported by hay and earth. Most people were in the 55 camp when it came to this flight, although the 1921 got significant play as well (95+).

It was time for the last flight, the five theoretical finest of the afternoon, and they were all up for the challenge. It would turn out to be, in the words of Paul Pontallier, a moving experience.. We began with a bottle of 1900 Margaux, or should I say THE bottle, as this was the bottle of 1900 Margaux that I had been looking for my whole life, being previously disappointed on a handful of occasions. There was a level of complexity here unmatched by any other wine so far. There were lots of wows from the crowd, along with oohs, aahs and omg.s. Its nose was perfect, so good with its smoke, wheat, earth, chocolate and cassis. The palate was rich and complete, with great sweetness and a long, scintillating finish. There was still zip to its dusty finish, and the fruit stayed great to the very last drop. Unbelievable. came from the crowd and summed it up perfectly (99).

The 1945 Margaux had a tough act to follow. Paul did recommend that we drink the 1900 last, but I wanted to be consistent with the fact that I had gone oldest to youngest for each of the prior flights. The 45 had aromas of wafer, wheat, stone and black fruits. The palate was tasty with chocolate and caramel flavors, but a bit overshadowed by the 1900 (94).

And the 1947 Margaux, for that matter, which was another scene stealer. A rare appearance by cinnamon graced the nose, along with wheat, grass and black fruits. This bottle had been recorked in 1988, and it was one of the few reconditioned bottles of the afternoon, benevolently so. It was rich, saucy and lush, capturing the essence of the hot 1947 vintage and offering an earthy, complex finish (95).

The 1953 Margaux proved why it is considered to be one of the greatest Margaux of all-time. It would only prove second to the 1900, which still means about as good as it gets. The nose had gorgeous spice and a creamy feel. There was classic, pure fruit here, and a delightfully nutty glaze. This is what Margaux does at its best, one gushed. Gil chimed in with apricot, and it was definitely there with an exotic twist. One could see the proud father in Paul’s eyes when he likened the 53 to the same family as 1905 and 1921. (98).

The last wine on this magical afternoon was the 1959 Margaux. There were aromas and flavors of chocolate, cassis, wafer, grain and smoke in this classy and classic Margaux (94).

The concept of tradition came up, and Dapper Dave quoted Freddie Mugnier of all people, saying that tradition is trying to make wines better.. Even one of the greatest Bordelais, Mr. Pontallier, could not disagree with that dose of Burgundian common sense. The tradition of Chateau Margaux, one started in the 17th Century, was on full and majestic display on this afternoon. It is an afternoon I will never forget.