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There is nothing like great, old wine. I have always found it ironic that wines from 1982 or younger often trade for higher prices than those that are older. I know there is a higher degree of risk with older wines, but for those that drink older wines on a regular basis, they will all tell you the reward is far greater than that risk, but I digress.
Sex in the City
This is an article about one specific collection, one of the most special collections ever to be auctioned, one so special it achieved over double its high estimate, something I have never seen before, and we have realistic estimates. This was a collection of only Chateau Latour, one of the greatest wines in the world today. But this was no ordinary collection, this was a collection from one of the former family owners of Chateau Latour, and because of their ownership, they would get ‘x’ amount of cases every year direct from the Chateau. These cases went straight into the family’s personal Chateau, where it remained untouched ever since, and the oldest wine on offer was from 1905.
The wines were stored in a classic, natural underground cellar similar to what you would find in Bordeaux or Burgundy, except this cellar wasn’t in either. It was so natural that there was no electricity in much of it, and certainly no windows or sunlight, of course. Much of the wine was stored on wood planks and protected by sand, which is actually one of the most ideal ways to store wine as far as limiting motion/movement. The labels weren’t pretty accordingly, and many of the capsules had this eroded or rusted look to them. I remember someone telling me to forget it, that Hong Kong/Chinese collectors would never go for labels that were so tattered and ugly, that they put appearance first and foremost. Well guess what buddy? Hong Kong is as sophisticated as anywhere in the world today, and they understand as well as anyone else that what’s on the inside is what counts the most.
Lineup of Latours
Even though Sebastien assured us that the 1905, 1959 and 1961 Latour that he sampled on location were some of the best bottles of his life, we made sure that all of our best clients had an opportunity to taste from this extraordinary cellar, and what followed is ‘the stuff of legends’ as the saying goes.
We began with a flight on the 8’s, the luckiest number in Chinese culture, but not so lucky all the time when it comes to Bordeaux. To start a wine event for over fifty people with a flight of Bordeaux that includes 1938 and 1958 Bordeaux might be considered foolish; I prefer to call it confidence. The great producers make great wines every year; it’s all about the storage after that, and something told me we were good when I planned this event in the first place. Ok, ok, let’s get to the wines already, I got it…
Plated Before Served
I could immediately smell the freshness still in the 1938 Latour. There was that old vanilla ice cream quality to its fruit along with light cedar, citrus dust and caramel, and its palate was tender, soft and smooth, easy like a day at the beach. Touches of cedar, vanilla, mesquite and cinnamon graced this elegant red, and while it was soft by the usual Latour standards, I was still impressed (90).
The 1948 Latour was much bigger and oakier in its nose, with lots of wood and green bean fruit behind it. The palate was rich and heavy, fleshy and fresh with wonderful texture and a zippy finish. Its wood blew off into a waterfall of cascading cassis and beef, and its weight stood out in this flight. Coffee and chocolate flavors emerged with air, and the wine really started to sing after some time in the glass. I have had this vintage twice before and always been underwhelmed, but I guess I didn’t have them from the right cellar (95).
The 1958 Latour was a wow wine. 1958 isn’t supposed to be this good! It was stunningly delicious, and its nose was intoxicating as well with its peanut and cream soda aromas, not to mention its obvious richness. Its tasty cedar and peanut flavors accentuated its meaty core perfectly, and there was great minerality to its tannins still. This was a Miss Congeniality of a wine, and I actually preferred drinking it to the 1948, although the ’48 was clearly superior by the time we were finished, technically speaking. Don’t forget I am a believer that enjoyment and ratings don’t always go hand in hand, I could get more into it if you take that comment personally, just let me know (94).
Beautiful on the Inside
The next flight began with another impressive ‘off’ vintage, the 1951 Latour. ‘Tannic’ came from the crowd, and we had another incredibly fresh, old wine on our hands. Signature walnut and black fruit were present in the nose, which came across almost as if a shot of Napa Valley was in my glass. The palate was heavy and oily with black fruit and cola flavors, along with a dry, slaty finish (93).
The 1954 Latour was at the bottom of our evening’s pyramid along with the 1938, but that was still a good place to be. This was a bit of a sibling to the 1948 with its green bean fruit, and the nose was quite cedary, showing some fresh paint as well. The palate was chocolaty and tasty with a flash of flesh. Smooth and lingering, there were also chalk and green bean flavors in this lighter yet lovely Latour (91).
The 1964 Latour that followed smelled like it was from the 1980s or younger. Although it was a bit shy, it gave off this Harlan-esque impression in the nose; this was a Napa Valley Latour. The palate was wow with its rich and oily personality. Flavors of chocolate, coffee and minerals combined with a lip and ass-smacking finish. Damn, that’s the second time I wrote that this week, I must have something on my mind (95).
The 1954 that was in the last flight was supposed to be a 1953, so we snuck in a 1922 Latour as an added bonus, and it was the type of bonus that made it a good year. Paul Pontallier, myself and many others were awe-struck last Fall by a 1922 Margaux, and this bottle seemed to make it official that this is a much better year than anyone seems to give credit. Its nose was creamy and full of vanilla, both buttery and scotchy. The palate was soft, luscious and delicious with nice spice and that citrus kiss. There was a long, lingering finish and big character to this locked and loaded wine. A touch of green pepper emerged with time (94).
Bird’s Eye View
The 1941 Latour is another forgotten vintage that will forever be remembered by me now. The ’41 had perfect purple in its rich and luscious nose, along with caramel cream and a dusty perfume. Its aromas were fresh like mountaintops, and it made me want to sing zippedy doo dah. Garden, citrus and beef broth all emerged in its nose, which took on a touch of tropical kink. The palate was lush and grapy with toasted almond flavors and drops of oil and sex. ‘Carraway’ and ‘wet saddle’ came from the crowd. This was a stunning wine that still had more youth in it than age (96).
The 1942 Latour was also outstanding. A recent outstanding 1941 DRC Richebourg and memories of numerous, great 1942 La Taches made me think this pair of vintages could be two of the forgotten greats. Let’s not forget legends like 1941 Unico in Spain and Inglenook in California, I think it might even have been great in Piedmont as well. Perhaps 1941 is the greatest forgotten vintage of the 20th Century? Back to the 1942…it was much grapier in its nose, in a good way. Its nose was creamy, sexy and exciting with its honeyed, sweet and flamboyant fruit. Surely this had to be from decades later? There was musky t ‘n a in the nose, which also became leathery, adding aromas of bread crust fresh from the oven. The palate was rich and sweet, chewy and fresh, with a gritty and dusty finish. This was another Latour whose freshness made it seem much younger than it was (95).
We finished this glorious evening with a strong pocket pair, beginning with the 1947 Latour. The ’47 has never been considered one of the top-tier wines of this legendary vintage, but this bottle shattered that myth. The ’47 was creamy and nutty with a sweet, open nose. Aromas of grape and broth were present in this rich, saucy and sexy wine. The palate was lush and chunky, grapy again due to the youthfulness of the bottle, but there was a kiss of toughness to its finish. Its secondary acidity was impressive, and the wine got longer and zippier in the glass. This was another great Latour, undervalued in the market (96).
Corks in Superb Condition
If the 1947 Latour were a husband, the 1949 Latour would be its wife. This was much more of an intellectual wine, not as obvious or open as many of the previous standouts. There were aromas of candle wax, cedar, citrus and some cobweb in the attic. The nose was more elegant and tangy, still long, but much more feminine. The palate was, of course, fresh, thicker than I expected, but also more on the citrusy side. Flavors of milk and forest floor signaled a different side of Latour, but despite its elegance, it stayed powerful and lingering on its finish. I noted that I wished I had the chance to get to know a full bottle of this wine over the course of an entire evening (96+).
It was a truly exciting night that left more than fifty wine lovers absolutely giddy. We sampled some Latour again for lunch the next day, and three of the vintages were the same: 1938, 1948 and 1922, and my notes were consistent. We also sampled three other vintages we did not have before, beginning with a 1914 Latour. This bottle had the lowest fill of any of the bottles we sampled (high shoulder), and it was the oldest, so I was a touch concerned at first. I should have known better by this point! This was another spectacular bottle, even more so when considering this was the year that World War I began. The Poet picked up on ‘lead pencil,’ and its nose was deep yet a bit shy given its age. Cedar slowly emerged, as it showed its finish qualities first, but the fruit would follow on the palate. Coffee and citrus dominated this rich and lush red, and tender meat and flesh flavors fell off of its bones. Yum (95).
33 Bottles of Latour on the Wall
Hello, 1959 Latour. This was still a baby, full of slate, minerals, cedar and paint before giving way to chocolate and coffee. This was another Napa Valley Latour, so young and so chunky that it gave off some Napa vibes, as in the natural expression of Cabernet there. The Cabernet flavors really came through with lots of asphalt, along with rich leather. This was a man still in boy’s clothing (97).
The 1961 Latour finished the two-day procession of Latours as it should have, on top. It was so much tighter than any other Latour previously tasted. Minerals and slate were sentinels guarding its cassis, ink and black fruit. The palate was incredible with an endless finish that was incredibly long and full of superb acidity. Full-bodied, massive and rich, there was a shot of port to its palate, more in texture than in sweetness. ‘Its tannins are still very fresh,’ noted someone. This was as good as this legendary wine gets (99).
It was a privilege to taste from this now legendary collection, to taste old Latour as it was meant to be, in its pure, original and unadulterated state. This was a testament to not only Chateau Latour, but also the ageability of Bordeaux. Old wines will always be exciting to me, especially from a great cellar like this, but even when they are random bottles here and there. They will never get old for me.
One Happy Family at One Harbour Road
In Vino Veritas,
JK
