ACKER USA
English
繁體中文
简体中文
Français
日本語
Português
Español
When it comes to the Northern Rhone, there are two names that stand out above all the rest, Guigal and Chave. While the history of Guigal dates back to 1946, Chave’s winemaking heritage dates back to 1481. Now that’s history.
A recent evening in New York saw a group of savvy New Yorkers sampling two decades worth of Chave’s Hermitage Rouge at Boulud Sud. It was a Wine Workshop affair, and the seas were calm with Messrs Hamburger and Madrigale running the show. The wines were anything but, however, as they spoke loudly and proudly on behalf of ‘The Hill.’
We started with a 1998 Chave Hermitage, which had a classic nose with aromas of animal, sweat, meat, autumn and bacon. It was tasty, more open and ready than I expected, but that was ok. It was almost deceptively ready, and I couldn’t decide whether this wine will actually improve. It was damn good now, and will be for some time (94).
The 1997 Chave Hermitage was, in a word, pleasing. There was more violet and pepper here, and its fruit was more forward, mature and a touch honeyed in the nose. Lightly roasted purple flavors pinched themselves with pepper, and animals murmured on its soft finish (92).
Fantastic Four
The 1990 Chave Hermitage took no prisoners, as always. It is tough to think of a greater vintage for this great wine. The nose has everything and then some – the animal, meat, game, honey, all perfectly roasted in an open campfire meets spitfire, good way. The palate was the tightest so far despite being the oldest, and its acid lingered like great memories. I need a whole bottle of this to myself some time soon (97).
Any good Chave tasting will always have the 1989 Chave Hermitage follow the 1990. The ’89, the year I graduated high school, was another taut one and even more backsided. Its roasted earth qualities were covered in snow; it was definitely a bit shut down. Flashes of tomato, sous bois and white pepper peeped on the palate and while a dose of flash and a shot of heat were present, it just couldn’t get past coming across shut down (94+).
The 1985 Chave Hermitage was much more open. It was meaty and fleshy, ready to go so to speak, entering a nice plateau that will last a while, for sure. It was missing a touch of weight from being a great vintage, but this was good stuff and much more enjoyable than the 1989, despite the ’89 having more potential (94).
The 1983 Chave Hermitage was also open, although it had less fruit than the ’85. There was more citrus and more earth here, and even though it came across mature, it was still firm. This was a pleasant, classy and balanced red, all in smaller doses (93).
Ready to Go
There were two wines left, and both were from the rockin’ Seventies. The 1979 Chave Hermitage had a honeyed, smoky nose that came across marinated, positively so. There was more unique expression to the ’79, but it still had the classic animal, bacon and violet. This was both classy and classic, and while not ‘next level,’ it was still in a good spot (93).
Last and certainly not least was the 1978 Chave Hermitage. Animal, game, smoke, cement, twigs, garrigue and light pepper were all over its open and seepy nose. Its palate was fleshy and still possessed nice richness for such an old soul. It got fleshier and meatier with time. This was absolutely singing right now, there for the taking, but you might wake up without your wallet. I went back to the 1990, and these were definite siblings. The oil and youth of the 1990 clearly stood out when going back, but if you fast forwarded the 1990, you would have the 1978, or at least something close (97).
There are many one two steps to be had in the world of fine wine, but only one Cha Cha Chave.
In Vino Veritas,
JK
