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…otherwise knows as ’66 Bottles of Mouton on the Wall.’ 11 Madison and Per Se were the settings, and one of the greatest wines ever to grace man’s lips was the case study, every vintage from 1945-2011 to be precise. I would give more of an introduction, but with 66 notes to summarize, let’s just cut to the chase.
We started with those ‘lesser’ vintages, which can often be the more exciting ones, if you ask me. A great vintage is supposed to be great; it can only live up to expectations or disappoint. An ‘off’ vintage has less expectation coming with it; it can only exceed its pre-conceived status. This first flight was a perfect example, with almost all wines showing well, and two vintages really well.
The View from Above at 11 Madison
The 1977 Mouton Rothschild had a nice nose with pleasant fruit along with some wax, cedar and mineral, someone even said ‘incredible,’ given the context of the vintage, that is. Its palate was smooth, soft and mature, pleasant but light, simple yet elegant. ‘Good nose but dry,’ commented one guest, although there were 3-4 votes for it as wine of the flight. Hamburger noted, ‘cedar, herbal, old school’ (89).
The 1976 Mouton Rothschild had a nutty nose that was much fuller bodied, ‘smells young’ as one put it. Its palate matched its fullness with touches of caramel. It had a creamy palate, with a solid foundation, and an enjoyable, round finish (93).
The 1974 Mouton Rothschild is one of those vintages that would fall under the ‘lowest of expectations’ category. Its nose led us in that direction, showing a funky, ripe and tangy nose that was wild and woolly, with tomato and tobasco aromas. The palate was much better than the nose, but it still had sour cherry flavors and that overmaturity that said, ‘if you only saw me twenty years ago’ (85).
The Unseen Ones
The famed ‘Picasso’ label graces the 1973 Mouton Rothschild. It lived up to the label’s reputation, showing a nice side of vegetal green, dark fruit and ‘eucalyptus.’ There were nice chalk flavors and tender fruit to its long palate. It held and actually gained in the glass (92).
The 1969 Mouton Rothschild was the least of the least, so to speak, the least elegant, the least classic, but with solid richness. It was all about the coffee, completely one dimensional in that regard (83).
The next flight began with the renowned 1968 Mouton Rothschild. Just kidding. Its nose was light with some windex, cardboard, cinnamon and light strawberry. It was clearly weaker but ok. Mr. 47 called it ‘a horrible vintage.’ It wasn’t horrible, despite being light and simpler. Ed found it ‘Burgundian with gorgeous tangerine peel.’ It was a 15 minute wine, for sure, but I enjoyed its citrus and tangerine flavors (86).
The 1972 Mouton Rothschild had a musky, nutty nose that I liked. There was citrus on its palate to go with its tangy flavors and touch of tomato. It was open and ‘horseradishy’ (88).
Miro Miro on the Mouton
Hamburger purred about the ‘mocha and milk chocolate’ in the 1967 Mouton Rothschild. There was big-time cocoa for sure. Its palate was rich, tasty and long with grit, definition and depth. There were flavors of earth, tobacco and powdered sugar along with creamy bakery goodness. Someone noted, ‘hazelnut,’ and Ed found it the best wine of the flight ‘by far’ (93).
The 1965 Mouton Rothschild had sour milk and paint aromas in as good a way as possible, even Mr. 47 said it ‘wasn’t bad.’ It also had that Burgundian edge; it had flesh but was weedy and milky, about as close to the border of not recommended as any wine of the weekend (81).
There was great spice to the 1964 Mouton Rothschild. A stick of cinnamon gum and forest floor added complexity, and its palate reminded me of 1976 with its caramel and chocolate. Ed found it softer than ’67, and he was right (91).
Psychedelic Sixties
The 1963 Mouton Rothschild was quite stewed and forward with some interesting spice and stinky fruit. The palate was quite good, being chocolaty, rich and yeasty with a nice body. This was a pleasant surprise that was tasty (90).
The last wine of the flight was a 1960 Mouton Rothschild. It had a yeasty nose with a light palate yet nice cherry flavors. It had a nice body and nice flavors, pleasant all around. Nice summed up this forgotten vintage (89).
A Lovely Pose and Another Dimension
The most interesting thing about this flight was when someone looked up some ratings for the vintages we just had, and two were in the 50-point range. Yikes. First of all, if it is below 80 points, just call it ‘Not Recommended.’ I mean is there really a difference between 55 and 72 points when it comes to wine? Also, guess which vintages had such a score? The two best. Oy.
We continued on to the rockin’ Fifties, beginning with a 1958 Mouton Rothschild. It was a touch musty with some minerals in its nose, but it was tough to get much out of it aromatically. Its palate was cinnamon and jasmine, almost incense like in character. It was another ‘not bad’ wine, still pretty with some nice tannin expressions. There was a touch of cork to its cinnamon flavors, but it was still pleasant (88).
The 1957 Mouton Rothschild had a beautiful nose full of pretty fruit with lovely red cherry and citrus notes. Its palate combined the red and citrus in elegant fashion. This was just beautiful all around (92).
The Rockin Fifties
The 1956 Mouton Rothschild had ‘sherry/caramel dry fruit,’ but its nose didn’t tell its full story. It was round, tender and fresh, with someone finding it ‘sophisticated.’ It was another pleasant surprise (89).
Another vintage of Mouton I’ll probably never taste again is the 1954 Mouton Rothschild. This also had the coffee thing going on, full of hay and the blacker side of fruits. The palate was a bit mature, possessing Madeira flavors but never losing sight of its coffee (84).
The 1952 Mouton Rothschild was another beautiful nose, more elegant than expected given the tannic nature of 1952. It was bready with red spices, and its palate was round and gorgeous with a thick finish. It was in a great spot, wine of the night so far. It was full, rich and heavy, the first wine that came close to the upper echelon (94).
Cool Labels from not so Cool Vintages
The 1950 Mouton Rothschild was the first, official (DQ) wine of the night, which wasn’t bad given the vintages and the fact that this was wine number 18. And so we ended our vintage portion of the program, or at least the older vintages.
We were back to the future immediately thanks to the 2008 Mouton Rothschild. The young bucks were indubitably here; this was a whole different category. Its nose was rich with butter, toffee and cassis along with garden notes that carried over to the palate. This was a balanced and elegant vintage with some substance and meat underneath. Someone thought it was ‘WOTN’ already, and another found it more ‘Californian.’ Asian spice and bitter black licorice rounded out the ’08 (94).
The 2007 Mouton Rothschild was more floral and purple, quite smooth for a younger vintage. A touch of fresh forest rounded out the nose, and its palate was full of black fruit flavors. It was solid up front, put together well, with the ‘best balance’ per one. Caramel flavors rounded out this enjoyable, early pleasing Mouton (93).
Whippersnappers
The next vintage had unusual aromas of ‘wet rug’ and ‘cheap lavender soap,’ although I thought there some issue with the glass accordingly. It was like chlorine or something of the sorts. The palate was solid, however. It clearly had the best finish of the flight. This was a controversial wine, or a controversial glass, but I saw the potential, and perhaps my score is low for the 2006 Mouton Rothschild (94+).
The 2004 Mouton Rothschild had some tutti frutti in the nose with baked spice, and a gamey and sweet personality. This was not like the last one I remembered having at all. Its palate was wheaty with long, dry earthy flavors and some black fruits (91?).
The last wine of this young flight was a 2002 Mouton Rothschild, which got a few ‘best drinking’s from the crowd, including the Rapmaster. There were some green edges to its nose, ‘more approachable’ with long, fresh, zippy and creamy qualities. Ed noted its ‘crabapple’ (92).
The 2001 Mouton Rothschild was a fresh start to a new flight. It was another young nose, but it had acid and a deep backside with purple, graham cracker, cedar and minerals. The palate was simpler with a dry finish, showing sandy, desert flavors (91).
The 1999 Mouton Rothschild had a big, smoky nose with waterfall and garden aromas. It was smooth, balanced and solid with a nice finish. ‘Cocoa and mocha’ came from the crowd, along with ‘vanilla bean French soup.’ This was almost a flight stealer (94).
Obligatory Food Shot
There was more yeast and bakery in the nose of the 1998 Mouton Rothschild. Cassis and black fruit came across in this elegant Mouton. It was surprisingly lighter and lesser than the 1999 that preceded it (92).
The 1997 Mouton Rothschild was all about the waterfall, smokehouse and cinnamon in the nose. Its palate was soft and easy, green beany in a nice way, light and simple, clinging on to getting into the 90-point club, but probably not for long (90).
The 1996 Mouton Rothschild got lots of ‘best’ for wine of the flight, including me. Aromas of cedar and caramel laid on top of strong acid. Ed interestingly found it ‘more Cheval Blanc than Mouton,’ while Mr. 47 commented that the 1996 had the best of new and old. Its acid continued to flex in strong manners (95).
The 1995 Mouton Rothschild that followed and ended this flight didn’t keep up with the 1996. ‘Plastic pamper’ came from the crowd, along with ‘crushed gavel, saran wrap and milk.’ It had a grainy nose but a soft finish. It was a nice wine, but a letdown after the 1996, which is clearly distancing itself from its oft compared and similarly priced sibling (92).
Flight in Motion
One of the best comments came from Peter, who noted that there was ‘more personality from vintage to vintage.’ Mouton is very diverse in its expressions.
There was one last flight to go, all the big-time young bucks, and what better vintage with which to begin than the 2000 Mouton Rothschild. Its nose was deep and meaty with nice cabinet spice and pepper, paprika and more herbs. There was cassis, nut and black forest in its majestic nose. The palate was a bit square, but its finish was long and sensual. This Korean BBQ edge let a little bit of excitement into the glass (95+).
The 2003 Mouton Rothschild had a sweet, ripe style typical of the vintage and was almost psychedelic. Its palate was round with flavors of coffee grinds, pleasant and easy, not as rock n’ roll as I have come to expect from this overheated vintage (93).
Last but not least
2005 was a watershed of a vintage, but I’ll stay off the record why. The 1995 Mouton Rothschild had a deeper and thicker nose with great raw materials and coffee aromas. While its nose was rich and deep, its palate was more shut down. Its nose was intoxicating, much better with its thick, full-bodied, big boy impression. Ed noted, ‘fresh herbs, tarragon and resin’ (95+).
I didn’t have much left in the tank, but enough to tell you that the 2009 Mouton Rothschild was much more forward in the nose but even more shut down than the 2005 (94).
The 2010 Mouton Rothschild was the real deal, so long and so deep. It was the wine of the night for sure, and a vintage that will outdo every other since 1982 (97+).
The Happy Recap
It was an epic first night, but it would only get better the following day.
In Vino Veritas,
JK
