Sea breeze and wet stone notes are present in the nose of this otherwise apple-, lime- and white currant-dominated bottling. Firm in feel, and with a persistently stony undertone, it is anything but austere thanks to the tingling brightness and stimulatingly seed-crunching piquancy of its citrus and berry fruit flavors as well as its mouthwatering salinity. To be sure, it lacks quite the levity of its “Spätlese Alte Reben” counterpart, but there is more energy and sheer concentration to this long-finishing beauty, and its palpable density does not translate to weightiness. - VM
VM91