Upon 2018’s arrival, I had a few resolutions I set for myself, but only one that relates to what you are reading right now: to keep current with my wine tasting notes. I thought about it, and came up with a simple solution: to write up three notes a day. Seems easy enough, right? Ten to fifteen minutes a day, and I could have myself 1000 published wine notes a year. The consumed bottles are there, trust me. Well, January has almost come and gone, and I still need to resolve my resolution. Work and family have not left much time on the table. So here is my attempt to get current with January, and start my resolution in February. I know I will be in a big hole very quickly, as our Grande Fete de Bourgogne from February 3-9 will see an enormous amount of great Red Burgundies get consumed.

My first great wine weekend of 2018 was in Los Angeles, where the most magical weekend occurred thanks to The Rev. This was no ordinary weekend, as The Rev finally got married after 57 years of that single life. Congrats again brother! And The Rev doesn’t have ordinary friends either, including a band of merry wine collectors that flocked together all weekend amongst his starry friends.

The next night was the first official great wine dinner of the year, and it was a Bad Boy production. He brought the Attorney General with him, as he tends to do in order to protect himself lol. Other than that, it was all young ladies, my wife included : )

We started with the 1996 Dom Perignon, which was what I would call good not great. It opened up in the glass, but it was a bit whitewall finish without much fruit development, and it had that typical young DP flavor profile of ice ice baby. Honestly, I can live without DPs younger than 1990 (92).

The 1996 Roumier Bonnes Mares was rich, dense and ‘extracted’ per the AG. This was a fantastic show for both Roumier and 1996, another vintage really coming into its own. There were loads of dark, black fruits along with a long, zippy finish. I was impressed how decadent this Roumier was, as they often take much more time to come around, and its heavy personality didn’t feel heavy handed. This was a great wine, flirting with another category (96+).

Next up was a 2001 Giacosa Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva, which was definitely in Beast Mode. This is the forgotten, great Barbaresco made by Giacosa. It is very rarely seen. This was an incredibly thick and long wine, tight for sure, but ready to play. It was dry like the Sahara in a good way, and intense like an Arabian prince. I was inspired by this wine, and so was the Bad Boy, who cleaned out the rest of my stock (97).

The last wine of the night was an excellent 1994 Soldera Brunello di Montalcino. It might have been a Riserva, I didn’t notice. In my mind, there is only one Soldera, and it is one of the truly great wines of the world. This was served a bit cold, but it was still a fastball of a Brunello that outpunched the weight class of its vintage. It was rich without being spectacular, but a delicious wine that also improved in the glass (93).

We all went on our merry way, only to reconvene for the big day. It was a magical wedding, love was everywhere, especially on our table with over a dozen incredible wines. It was a real party, so I didn’t take thorough notes, but I got to have a lot of interesting discussions with people with lots of Grammys. Here were the wines:

Ok so I made it through my first wine weekend of 2018. Let’s see if I can keep it up. That means another article next week before our Grande Fete de Bourgogne, as I was a busy boy in Hong Kong this week. Here’s to a resolution I will finally keep!

Happy New Year y’all. May 2018 be your best vintage yet! 2017 was a great year for Acker, and a lot of hard work. There was also a lot of great wine. Here are my Top Ten wines of 2017 – at least the ones I can remember, or found the notes for. There’s probably a ten percent margin of error lol. The envelopes please…

I could end this article here, but it just doesn’t feel right. There were so many other exceptional wines had this year, but where to draw the line? Well, 97 points and up, of course. That is equivalent to the ‘best wines of my life’ category. This is probably a good time to give a ‘this is how I rate’ review. 95-96 is outstanding, 93-94 is excellent and 90-92 is very good. For me, all fine wines should fall into one of these four categories; first, is it excellent? Is it outstanding? Etc. If a wine is very good bordering on excellent, then it is 92 points as opposed to 91 or 90. That’s about as quick a summary as I can make. And now for the rest of the ‘Wines of the Year 2017.’

Crap, in my final scrum amongst all my notes to get all those 97 point and up wines, I found one more 99 point wine I totally forgot, the 1992 Ramonet Montrachet. Let’s call it #4a to break up that run of La Taches lol. ‘The Ramonet was toasty, milky and caramel-y, this was a bang zoom kind of wine and one of the greatest white wines ever made. Flavors of mint, corn, syrup, butter and kinky white chocolate had me talking GOAT. Maaaaaaaaa.’ (99)

Ok, just to be completely frank, there were two more wines I found at 98+ so technically they should have been in my Top Thirteen, aka the Baker’s Dozen, fuck fuck fuck…they were the 1959 Lafite and Mouton, but I am just in too deep trying to finish this damn thing and I need to get the January HK catalog on the press, so deal with it : )

Here are the rest, oldest to youngest, because older is always better, at least for wine : )

So 84 wines tasted in 2017 that I would consider amongst the greatest wines in my life, that’s about three bottles every two weeks to have a ‘wine of your life.’ I think that is a good goal for all in 2018. Of course, if I didn’t miss that 1947 weekend in South America due to last second drama, I would have made it to 100, I know it!!! Now I am mad about that weekend, let’s just say that when push comes to shove, family comes first…grrrrrrrr…and thanks to The Ambassador for the invite…

Anyway, here’s to a delicious 2018 to all, drink up and be merry!

While Greater China and the USA are the two lions sharing most of the free market’s fine and rare wine in the world today, there is a third lion, perhaps more of a cub when it comes to its wine, but one that already knows how to roar. I try to go to Brazil at least twice a year, as the passion, energy and culture of the Brazilian people is a true joy to share. Of course, it is more joyous when there are bottles of wine on the table, and the most joyous when they are the world’s finest and rarest.

One of my first and dearest friends in Brazil is known as The Ringmaster. The name is self-explanatory, and The Ringmaster once again planted a seed for a tremendous day to grow into one of the most memorable meals I have had all year. The Maestro was our host, a man who loves wine as much as any that I have ever met, and his spectacular apartment in Sao Paulo was the setting for a lunch that went well into the evening.

The second Krug in this flight I guessed correctly, with it being a 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil. There was immediately more oak noticeable in the nose. It had the most power of the flight, but it was a bit dirty and clumsy by comparison to the first Champagne. It was rich and round with soda and cracker qualities, and the vanilla came in as the oak morphed a bit in the glass (95+).

The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil was delicious; it was the most ready to go and approachable, which is why I thought it was the 1990 regular. It was quite tasty with citrus and toffee twists, along with pleasant spices and a nice mahogany or interior wood quality. However, it was lighter than the first two! The ’88 has long been one of my favorite Krug vintages, so I was surprised with its more demure personality. It got more limey in the glass (95).

At first, I preferred the 1999 Ramonet Montrachet, whose mintier nose was a giveaway for Ramonet. It felt a lot more wound up and intense than the DRC in the beginning. There was great spice and super spine here, a bit in the S&M direction, as the wine whipped my palate into submission (97).

The 1999 Lafon Montrachet was unfortunately oxidized (DQ), so The Maestro quickly disappeared to his cellar for a mystery white to replace it. He noted ‘sesame’ in the nose, while The Ringmaster found ‘peach marmalade.’ It was leaner than the 1999 and reminded me of the 2000 vintage a bit, but in a much younger way. My guesses were all over the place, and I was thinking older than it really was. The Traveling Man guessed 2009, and he was a lot closer to the actual vintage of this 2012 DRC Montrachet. It was still baby juice compared to the 1999s; I recommend waiting at least ten years before cracking those DRC Montys (94+).

The 1988 Leroy Richebourg was much richer with a cherry cough syrup thing happening, not in a negative way. It was rich and almost syrupy, oily and long with loads of black fruits on its finish. At first, I found the two Richebourgs qualitatively equal despite being stylistically different (both around 95 points), but after some time in the glass, I agreed with Dr. Feelgood that the DRC was the better wine (94).

Interestingly, the second C du P was a bit yeasty and weird at first. There was this dirty pool water thing as the Rayas giggled its way into my heart. The 1990 Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins was clearly stronger and blacker; it flexed a lot more muscle and sprinkled a lot of pepper around the nose. Its dirty qualities transformed into oats and cereal, along with a lot of farm goodness. In the end, the Celestins was deeper, longer and more complex (96+).

The North was, as you might guess, a Chave La Chapelle throwdown. The 1978 Chave Hermitage had a sweet and perfumed nose with light pepper, gorgeous violet and whiffs of bacon, all in the right places. This was very classic, very rich and very round (96).

As good as the Chave was, the 1978 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle was one of the wines of the day so far. There was so much animal here with loads of menthol. The was a gamey and meaty wine that was absolutely delicious and oh so good. ‘GREAT’ summed it up (98).

The 1959 Mouton Rothschild was stronger and longer, clearly the better bottle. Its cassis, chocolate and mint were divinely proportioned and present. This was a red wine that was actually a cheese killer ”“ usually cheese kills red wines but not this time. This was a classic claret, with that unique Mouton style, in a perfect place (98).

A ‘serious’ blind wine was served next, and the Romanee Conti guesses came quickly. There was this autumnal oil to the nose, along with sweet brown sugar, menthol, gingerbread and more spice. This was a ‘crazy time’ wine. More sweet brown sugar and oats played together nicely on the palate, and this lip smacking red had a citrus spank to its finish that hurt so good. It wasn’t from the 1990s, not 1980s, had to be 1978 RC, I mused. It was a stunningly good bottle of 1988 DRC Romanee Conti. Wow. I was impressed, not only how good, but how much more ready it was than I thought an ’88 would be. I need to investigate a few more from this vintage in early 2018 (98+)!

As Autumn seizes the season with its crisp, cool hands, I can’t help but reminisce about summer nights. There aren’t many evenings better spent than ones with The Mogul, and I was fortunate enough to have two significant soirees out East, from a New Yorker’s perspective. While The Mogul is one of the biggest American lovers of Bordeaux that I know, we kept the food groups these rounds mainly to Champagne and Burgundy. Nothing wrong with that.

Since I still have 40+ notes for these couple of special occasions, I will just start rolling with the 2002 Krug, the first wine at dinner. The newly released Krug is another exceptional release from Champagne’s top dog. It was a delicious, long and zippy bubbly that exuded the word ‘great.’ There were nice flavors of yellow fruits, corn and bitter, along with a little cream and a touch of scotch. While young, it was still fun to hang out with (96).

The 2002 Krug Clos du Mesnil was more shut down, on the leaner and shier side. It was served first on purpose, although I didn’t taste it first, assuming it was served first in error. While longer and more cerebral, the ‘regular’ Krug vintage stole the show…for now. The Falcon noted ‘brioche’ while The Mogul found it more ‘bagel dough.’ Nicole noted how a ‘pinch of heat gave this vintage incredible fruit.’ 1982 was a vintage that came up in a comparable conversation, and while intuition would say this was the best wine on the table, it wasn’t quite yet (95+).

We had a couple of MV Krugs next, #158 was a blend back to 1988 held for over twenty years! It was a bit grassy and lighter (93),and I much preferred the #164, which was mostly 2008 (95)You can never go wrong with an MV Krug, it is one of the best possible ways to start a dinner party, or a date, or Sunday breakfast alone lol.

The 2011 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche had more approachability, to be expected for a 2011, one of my favorite young white Burg vintages to drink young. This was a buttery and forward wine with much more open flavors, but it didn’t have the staying power in the glass as the other two (94).

I didn’t have much to say about the 2010 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet other than ‘long, clean, racy and classic.’ That about sums it up (95).

A 1989 Domaine Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Pucelles was unfortunately corked (DQ).

The 1983 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet was a spectacular bottle. I have always liked this vintage of Burgundy for both red and whites, and the top wines remain delightful. The Blue Jay found its mid-palate ‘restrained’ and more ‘Batard.’ I just found it delicious. I was impressed with its atypical acid and length for the vintage. This was a full, rich and regal Chardonnay (96+).

A 2001 Roumier Bonnes Mares was similar to the 2006 with its brooding, dark personality, in contrast to the vintage. The Mogul saw it too, comparing both the ’01 and the ’06 to an unopened peacock plume. He would know; he has a few on his property. The 2001 was serious, but restrained, and there was a touch of dirty diaper there that needed time to blow off (94).

The 1996 Roumier Bonnes Mares was far and away the best of the flight, but it clearly needed lots more time. I think Roumier is almost Bordelais in that it needs three decades to shed its skin on the top level. This was a classic ’96 with its bristling acid zipping, zigging and zagging. This was both classy and gorgeous which is not always an easy combination to come by lol. The whips and chains of the ’96 vintage were on full display like…like…let’s just say that when 1996s are on, they are fantastic (96+).

Surprisingly, the 1993 Dujac Clos de la Roche was decidedly different, very furry and dirty, with some diaper and ‘coffee grinds’ per The Mogul. There were some black fruits here but a tootsie pop thing that simplified its situation. ‘Dirty South’ summed up this possibly affected bottle (91?).

The 1993 Leroy Vosne Romanee Beaux Monts was rich, deep, dark and heavy. It was decidedly a different animal than the other Burgs, and it also had more animal along with Asian and allspice. This was a long and brooding wine, classic Leroy Domaine style (96).

About a month later, we did it all over again, but this time I didn’t lose my ‘pre-game’ notes. And the Vintage Tastings Alumni turnout was strong, led by Lady Agah and Gentleman Jim, Wild Bill, Jennie P and the one and only, Big Boy. Lights, camera, action.

The 1988 Louis Roderer Cristal magnum was much better. This was quite full-bodied, with super spritz and a long, zippy finish. It had signature flavors of butterscotch and a sweet citrus thing happening. There was nice length and balance to this tasty Champagne (95M).

The 1988 Krug magnum was clearly the biggest and baddest of them all, but the Cristal was giving it all it could handle in the ‘drink now’ category. With a little bit of cheese, the Krug took off, really coming into its own for the ‘Best of Class’ in 1988 (97M).

A 1976 Salon quickly got everyone’s attention. Wild Bill was admiring its ‘sophistication,’ although it was a bit shy on the spectrum of flavors. There were white ice qualities, almost diamond-like impressions could there be an aroma and flavor as described as such. Big Boy observed, ‘salt,’ that it was ‘too young’ and that ‘other bottles have been six stars.’ He would know (94+M).

A bottle of 1979 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rose got us out of magnum territory in decent fashion. It was lacking some bubbles but not lacking in acid. ‘Orange peel,’ rust and dried strawberry co-mingled in this round and solid Champagne. This bottle seemed autumnal, which could have been the wine, or the bottle, but it didn’t strike me as off (93).

I had brought along a rare bottle of 1966 Lafon Meursault Charmes from Wolfgang’s collection that I was dying to try. The fill was a touch lower, but I had a hunch it would be good. It was a solid bottle despite the handicap – that ol’ Grunewald magic! It had a nutty and minty nose, with some animal fur and unsalted butter edges. It was a yellow siren of a wine, smooth and round, a touch gamey but great, and a thrill to try. Of course, Big Boy had to shit all over it lol. You talkin’ to me??? (94)

A 1992 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre was matchstick city. Lady Agah found it ‘ashy’ and full of ‘sage.’ There were lots of oyster shells and some exotic lime to this long and creamy Chablis. Limestone joined the party thrown by this smooth and satiny white (94).

The Mogul threw in a bottle of ‘boat wine,’ a bottle of 1996 Maison Leroy Meursault Charmes. Gentleman Jim was all over its ‘clove cigarettes.’ This was a buttery, polished wine, more like a touch of aged butter, with a caramel thing happening. This was definitely a ‘boat wine,’ aka easy, great drinking (93).

We had a pair of reds with the last of lunch, and things went up a notch. The 1999 DRC Grands Echezeaux was no La Tache, but it was all ’99 DRC. It felt young by comparison to that LT a month ago, but it didn’t have the same air time. As young as it was, it was so great, with amazing red and black fruits to go with tomato and animal aromas and flavors. Its acid smacked that and then some. If I could only own one vintage of DRC for the last forty years, it would be 1999 (96).

There was a quick swim, and a couple more quick Champagnes to wind down our day. The 1969 Krug Collection magnum was rich and buttery, with light vanilla and toffee flavors. There was lots of cream without the creamy, and this was a solid bubbly, a fastball right down the middle (95M).

The 1992 Domaine Leflaive Batard Montrachet that followed took immediate charge of the flight. It was bigger and in a perfect spot. It was also minty, ‘more tropical’ per The Mogul, as a 1992 should be. Its flavors were nutty and creamy with an herbal goodness and some ‘lemon oil.’ It was sweeter and rounder, with great acidity, and citrus and pineapple exploded in the glass with time (96+).

The 1988 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, however, was the flight’s most delicious wine. Wild Bill was in awe, commenting ‘GD what a wine!’ It was creamy and wintry with great supporting earth characteristics. Delicious kept appearing in my notes, and Lulu and The Mogul noted together, ‘oyster shells and shellfish.’ There was this menage a trois of salt, butter and citrus flavors in this rich, bright Chardonnay. There was also slate, cream and dry honey. There was a lot going on in this overlooked vintage for white. This wine was a bruiser without being brutish, and ‘so delicious’ appeared for a third time (97).

A quartet of Rousseaus was about as good as it gets, which each bottle delivering a full throttle experience, beginning with the 1996 Rousseau Chambertin. Lady Agah noted, ‘mushrooms,’ and Wild Bill ‘cherry.’ There were loads of vitamins in this healthy, virile red. It was intense with its acid, another whips and chains ’96, with loads of menthol, meat and oil flavors. Its spicy and spiny personality was ‘oh so good’ (96).

The 1985 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze also had lots of acid, despite the vintage usually being more forward. The quality of the producer was really shining. It had a brothy and sappy personality, along with tea biscuit qualities. It was another delicious wine, with nice ‘leaves’ to it along with excellent fruit. It was a veritable leather fun pack unto itself (96).

The 1999 Rousseau Chambertin was so ample, yet still a teenager. There was more purple to its deep fruit. Jennie P. admired its ‘awesome make up and complexity.’ Despite being so young, it opened up in the glass a bit, resulting in the best bottle of this that I can ever remember having. It was thick, long and spectacular. Gentleman Jim, who was starting to resemble One-Eyed Jack lol, hailed it ‘my favorite at some point.’ What a flight (97).

The 1999 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was even better, as 1999s have proven to be, just in this article alone! There was iron and spice in this muscly wine. Lady Agah noticed ‘hoisin,’ and I noticed loads of black and purple fruit to go with its fine finish (96).

The 2002 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was a dirty bottle, a bit off-putting and somehow off, although it wasn’t cooked or corked (91?).Someone threw in a 1995 DRC Grands Echezeaux, which was rock solid (95).

While an ambitious afterparty was planned in advance, there would be no after thereafter. It was lights out, a TWKO, technical wine knock out. Nights like these already have me looking forward to 2018’s Summer Nights.