The 1979 Louis Roederer Cristal was drier and longer with even more zip. While long, it was less sweet and flamboyant than the 1982, although Miss Congeniality loved ‘the sugary sweetness of ’79.’ This was dustier on the palate, with flavors of orange rind and game (95).

The 1976 Louis Roederer Cristal was more nutty and a little yeasty. Many thought this was the freshest bottle of the three, but I found it the least interesting (92).

The 1982 Ramonet Batard Montrachet was a little musty at first, but it improved significantly with the scallop dish that soon followed. It clearly had much more power than the Sauzet; it was also served out of magnum, which certainly helped. Classic nuttiness and foresty mint followed in this smooth and satiny white. It felt younger than the Sauzet; again, likely the magnum factor. Someone hailed it as a “big bastard” and another found it “healthy, lingering bottle” Flavors of honey, rainwater and a touch of exotic cinnamon rounded out this big bottle (96+M).

The 1982 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet was also served out of magnum, yet it came across more polished and smooth. It was rich, buttery, sweet and creamy; perhaps, the most classic of all three. Others observed, ‘minerality’ and ‘burnt match.’ Astroman found it to be a meal by itself and that it had ‘everything including the food.’ Interestingly enough, ten in the group preferred the Sauzet, five the Ramonet and eight the Leflaive (there were shared pours). I was in the Leflaive camp (97).

The 1996 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne had a bit of dirty birdie in its nose at first, not in a bad way, and in a way that blew off. There were many hues of yellow in this sunny white. It was rich and gamey with great honey and spice flavors. In the end, the majority preferred the 1996. So did I (97).

The 1993 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne was a bit mature and frankly advanced. It was gamier than it should have been, and even though it had a pleasant palate, it felt a touch off (93A).

Its sibling, the 1989 La Mission Haut Brion, is also a rock star wine, and this bottle didn’t disappoint. It was deeper and more decadent than the HB, with its usual thick chocolaty style. Motor oil and black fruits rounded out this spectacular La Miss. I’m not sure if Tom Terrific was asking or telling, but there was some question or comment about the 1990 being even better (98).

Humdinger, Part 2,’ was next, that being the 1989 Petrus. While half the tasters preferred the HB, one-third preferred the Petrus, including me. The Mogul found it ‘opulent,’ and it most certainly was. This was another decadent wine, but in that Pomerol way, textbook in every sense with its purple fruit, heavy cream and chocolate kisses. As good as it gets, and btw, the 1990 is not in the same category, sorry (99).

The 1961 La Mission Haut Brion was a perfect bottle. I wrote, ‘so great’ three times. Its charcoal, gravel and leather married perfectly with its mature fruit flavors of cassis, blackberry and chocolate. The character of this wine really stood out. It just felt like another class of wine whether weight or society. This was an anytime, anywhere bottle (99).

The 1961 Latour was an oakier bottle. It was a lot richer but its flavor profile was a bit reticent and hesitant to show. There is a lot of bottle variation to this legendary wine, and while this was still an outstanding bottle, it was a bit of an afterthought after that La Mission (96).

The 1980 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze was badly corked and a complete (DQ).

The 1969 Rousseau Chambertin more than made up for it. This was a ‘WOW’ wine. It was fleshy and gamey with a dollop of honey to its sweet, musky nose. This twist of lemon accentuated its red fruit flavors, and there were nice earth supplements. Rich and lush, this was a flat out delicious wine, one that is the Burgundy wine of the vintage, for sure (97)

The 1978 Dujac Bonnes Mares had a deeper finish and while similar in personality to the CSD, it was richer and thicker overall. There was more toast, earth and game to the Bonnes Mares. Astroman hailed the trio as ‘the most consistent flight of the evening’ (96+).

The 1978 Dujac Clos de la Roche was the best of the flight for me. There was sweeter, purple fruit with many shades of that purple and a creamier personality. There was nice earth to its finish, and while all three had this similarity, I found the sweetness and balance of the CdR superb and a notch up. Its richness and length were stellar as well (98).

We went to La Mouline next, the best of the three ‘LaLas’ if you ask me. The 1978 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline was rich and decadent, full of smoke and white pepper aromas. Its palate was creamy and spiny with a long finish that had pinches of jalapeno. The Mogul found it ‘massive,’ and it was a different level of rich and thick (97).

The 1976 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline was oakier and even thicker, but a bit oaked out for my tastes. While a touch square, exotic fruit developed. Perhaps this vintage of La Mouline needed more time than I had to give it at this point (94+).

While spectacular in its own right, the 1969 Guigal Cote Rotie La Mouline was a lot more elegant than I remember this wine being, but it might have been ten years since I had it last. These older vintages of La Mouline are super rare. I remember this being a 99 point revelation for me before, but this bottle wasn’t that. Astroman found it ‘like a mature Burg,’ and I saw exactly what he was saying. The Mogul found the ’69 ‘like Stef, but the ’78 was LeBron.’ He then proceeded to put in a bid on the Rockets lol (96).

Check, please. Sunday was the Grand Finale, except this time it would be lunch. There was already enough the past two nights to give me plenty of sweet dreams so far, but the wine of the weekend was still to come.

Hey there. It’s been a long time, I shouldn’t have left you…2017 has been a great year for wine auctions, but not for my tasting notes, at least publishing them. I still have a lot of notes, I just haven’t been able to get them out. Need to work on that. With the Fall season arriving and an extremely exciting September already in my air, I finally sat down and started to dig into dozens of pieces of papers of notes, and then, of course, I had to start here.

There was one weekend in 2017 that I could not let pass me and my notes by, and that was our ‘Greatest Wines of the World Weekend,’ held this past May. Collectors came from all over the country, and even outside the country, to New York City for three extraordinary meals at New York’s finest restaurants: 11 Madison, Daniel and Per Se for three days of Bacchanalian bliss.

We quickly got back on track with a 1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil. This was a big, heavy and muscly Champagne. It was long and zippy, full-bodied and flat-out great. This was the definition of brawn for bubbly, and its palate added nice grassy and earthy components to go with its rippling fruit (96).

The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil had the best nose, showing the most fruit and a full kaleidoscope of yellow aromas and flavors. It came across richer accordingly. This was sunshine in a glass, just starting to show some mature flavors, yet still rip-roaring with its acidity and finish. Dave noted, ‘the oldest is the freshest’ (98).

The 1986 Raveneau Valmur was noticeably fuller and richer, and its flavor profile was similar to that of the Blanchot. These were definite birds of a feather, but the Valmur had more layers with its bigger and broader personality. It added some extra complexity of flint and fireplace flavors, and additional flavors of honey and grass while wild herbs emerged. Cam appreciated its ‘nuttiness,’ while another found it the ‘most complex’ of the flight (96).

The Raveneau hierarchy held to form, as the 1986 Raveneau Les Clos was fantastic and my favorite of the flight. There was a pinch more sweetness to the Clos, with kisses of exotic fruits. There was also this gingerbread edge that flirted with all of its other exotic spices. Dave admired the classic ‘oyster shell,’ and I kept writing exotic over and over. It definitely danced on my palate (97).

The 2000 DRC Montrachet was the ballerina, displaying that cleanness and freshness of the vintage, and while it was long and lingering, it was in a much more elegant way. This was classic 2000, and sheer pleasure to drink, although I am not sure it will be getting any better (97).

The 1982 Latour has always been one of my favorite ’82s, and this bottle clearly showed why. It took a little time to shake off some cobewebs/must, but once it did, it was so much richer and deeper than the Lafite. It was even inky in a Bordeaux way. Its palate was rich, thick and long with shades of walnut. Its purple and cassis seemed endless. One day everyone will wake up and this wine will be $1k more a bottle, which is still $1k less than the average ’61 (98).

The 1982 Mouton Rothschild is one of my other all-time faves from the vintage, but in a different way. This wine has always been the wine I would want in 2050, God willing. It is still such a tight wine. There was great cigar box to its nose, but this was clearly a wine about structure. There was some nut and carob here, and the Carolina Panther found ‘earth and mushrooms.’ The wine thickened in the glass, almost daring you to drink it over the next 24 hours (97+).

The 1928 Mouton Rothschild was surprisingly lighter than the Palmer. There was more dryness showing in the Mouton, along with more cobwebs and old library. This bottle was on the drier side and no match for the Palmer despite a pleasing personality in general (94).

If there were a “king of the business” in 1928, it would have to be the 1928 Latour. While the Latour was clearly the longest wine of the flight, it was also much more elegant than I remembered. Of course, at this age, there is so much bottle variation, even within the realm of positive experiences, which this certainly was. Its acidity really stood out, and this high-pitched Latour definitely hit a high note, just not as high as the Palmer (96).

The 1985 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was similar to the ’78 somewhat, but richer with more fruit and more of that flavor I was looking for. This was a solid wine with a gritty finish and dry desert flavors (95).

The 1990 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was served out of magnum, which in retrospect was probably a mistake. It was just too young. This was even drier than the first two, but it was also longer and zippier, no doubt aided by the magnum factor. This was tight, dry and unyielding. I must say while I am a huge fan of Giacosa, I was quite disappointed by this flight. “Tough company?” I questioned (94M).

While the 1988 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux was still outstanding, it seemed simple compared to the 1991. Maybe closed is a better word choice. It was a clean, lean, fighting machine that was nice but not as naughty as I would have liked (94).

The 1986 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanee Cros Parantoux was tasty and creamy, showing more flesh and game than either of the previous two wines. This was open for business by comparison. Jayer was a master of the “off” vintages like 1986, but the words “off vintage” seem like a misnomer, especially in today’s Burgundy world. The ’86 had a great m_lange of fruit flavors, showing all different types of skin, but mainly red, purple and black (95).

The 1978 DRC Romanee St. Vivant was solid. It was big and full-bodied with a long, minerally finish. The Mogul wasn’t feeling it, and it was a bit dry and dirty compared to the Echezeaux. The RSV was fuller, but not better. Many feel DRC’s RSV really started to achieve what it should over the last twenty years, and that earlier vintages are always good but never great (94).

The last wine of this illustrious flight was much gamier and open compared to its siblings. The 1978 DRC Richebourg was open like 24-7 and almost syrupy with more concentration. This was the richest and heaviest of the flight, but the Echezeaux kind of stole its show (96).

The night was coming to a close, and so were my note-taking skills. “Bacon, blood, pig, beef, smoke”summed up the 1990 Chave Hermitage. And notes of Viognier, even though I am not sure any is in it lol. It was damn good (96).

The 1990 Chave Ermitage Cuvee Cathelin was corked. Fuuuuuuuck. Two 5k bottles down the drain. No one said fine and rare wine was easy. Thankfully, everyone in attendance understood these things happen and didn’t let it affect their spectacular night (DQ).

While this was an amazing evening in every which way (let’s not forget food and company), it was a bit of a warmup for the two sessions that would follow. It was taxi time, and in less than 24 hours we would be at Daniel, doing it all over again.

The 1955 Dom Perignon was completely flat and (DQ).The 1955 Krug was better but on the edge. There was more vanilla and plenty of nuts to go around, but there was very little mousse. This was creamy and heavy, but more wine-like, and while tasty, it just had no bubbles. I still liked it (95A).

The 1973 DRC Montrachet saw ‘caramel’ and ‘coconut’ from the crowd. There was a lot more oak here than I expected, and it was longer than the forward and giving 1982, despite being out of bottle. There was also this touch of poultry to this woodsy, thick white; it definitely needed time. While I was impressed with the wine, I wanted more out of its flavor profile. It was the favorite of the group (95M).

The 1978 Ramonet Motnrachet was the best wine of the flight, but it was slightly corked. There was a tropical nose behind its cork, along with orange, butter and chimney action. It kept getting better and better, and there was no questioning its raw materials. This was a rich, full and long stallion of a white (97+A).

The 2000 D’Auvenay Chevalier Montrachet had less toast and more seashore elements, along with nice yellow fruit. There was a long finish, as its acidity lingered, but this wine became a bit wild and woolly, which ‘didn’t bother’ the Punisher (95).

The 1996 D’Auvenay Chevalier Montrachet was once amongst the best white wines of my life about ten years ago. I am not sure if I even had it since then, but this bottle didn’t deliver the same experience.

However, it was a bit oxidized and not a perfect bottle. It was more tropical and gamy, and I didn’t have much to add after that (94A).

The 1959 Mouton Rothschild had a similar personality with an inky, deep color. There were more caramel and carob twists in the nose, and its palate was meaty and decadent. It was thicker than the Latour and showed more pencil, but I found them qualitatively equal (98+).

The 1959 Lafite Rothschild is one of my favorite all-time Bordeaux, and this bottle didn’t disappoint. It had all the usual suspects and hung tough with its two tough competitors. ‘Gorgeous’ summed it up nicely (98+).

The 1945 Haut Brion is another one of my favorite things from the greatest vintage of all-time, and this bottle was some sexy goodness. It had a stonier nose, but all that rich, caramel and toffee action that makes this wine so great. It had a very thick finish, enough to make me smack that (97).

There had to be one wine of the weekend, and it might as well have been the 1945 Mouton Rothschild. ‘OH YEAH’ is how my notes started. This wine was everything it could be and should be, an absolutely perfect bottle. It was nutty with aromas of caramel, cream, cedar and carob. This was sexy everywhere, tall dark and handsome, all that and then some. This was a superman amongst boys, and it still felt like it had a long way to go. It ended up being wine of the weekend (99+).

The 1961 Comte de Vogue Musigny Vieilles Vignes was a grassy lassy, showing excellent acidity amongst its beefy, bloody and brothy components. There was horse and hay in this ‘smokier’ Musigny from an underrated vintage. This was also a bit sassy to go with its grassy, and wild herbs and coffee developed in the glass (96).

The 1961 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino Riserva took it up another notch, with a sweeter and smokier style, almost like some BBQ ribs. It was ‘too much’ for at least one, but I found this wine to be incredibly complex. It continued to develop aromas and flavors of licorice, tea, tar and smoke. Its acidity exerted itself in fine fashion, and its sandy and desert-y personality let you know that nature was still in charge (97).

The 1971 Drouhin Musigny was a bit on the tutti-frutti side, more mature than it could have been. At this stage, I didn’t have a lot extra to say if a bottle wasn’t perfect (94A).

The 1971 DRC La Tache was another perfect bottle, smoky and sexy in every which way. This was a great, thick wine that exuded greatness. This wine was full of ceramic spices and had cement on its finish, sleeping with the fishes style. This was a bottle that ended all discussions, there was no need for life thereafter. It was ‘so good’ (99).

One of the highlight wines of the weekend theoretically also succumbed to being corked, so badly I couldn’t even taste it. Tant pis and RIP for this bottle of 1962 DRC Romanee Conti (DQ).

I thought the 1961 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle was the wine of the flight, but the Punisher had other thoughts. I had to race through this flight actually to catch a flight, so I had to dip and dash, so to speak. I did enough dipping to notice earth, game, bacon and the most weight in the flight. This was thick and earthy wine, and while not the best bottle I ever remember, pretty damn good (97).

I excused myself from the dinner table, and Dave slid me out the secret service exit where there were three shots of Yquem waiting. Yes, I did shots of Yquem, and it wasn’t the first time. They’re better naked, but I digress. The 1937, 1928 and 1921 Yquem were all (97-99) point wines, and if you haven’t had an Yquem that old before, what are you waiting for?

It was one of the most spectacular wine weekends of all time, and great to share it with so many ready, willing and able grape nuts. You can be sure that next year is already in the works, hopefully I will see you there!

While everyone is accustomed to the Top Ten, I prefer a Dirty Dozen. I mean, after all, wine by the case comes by the dozen, or at least it should. Is there any more argument needed? 2016 was a great vintage in many which ways, but in the end, some memories stand out more than the others. It is my pleasure to present to you the best twelve wines I tasted in 2016.

We crossed the bridge to the world of Pinot Noir, and we began with a world dominator, a magnum of 1988 Roumier Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes. This wine was worth the trip to San Francisco. Dapper Dave noted, ‘crazy velvet,’ and he wasn’t talking about Big Boy’s pants lol. Actually, it was thanks to Big Boy that we had this incredibly rare wine. This magnum left all the hens teethless, as only Big Boy could and still can do. My notes started, ‘spectacular wine, out of control great.’ I am getting goosebumps just writing about it again. Its nose had sappy, red cherry fruit with bright bing and traces of citrus. Dave felt it was just entering its plateau. Its palate was long and extraordinary, gritty and powerful. This was a spicy hot mama that left me licking my lips after its last kiss good night. It was so good that it left me concentrated all over (99M).

There were too many crazy wines being opened downstairs in the cellar to linger upstairs, so I headed back down to one of the wines of the night, and it was only fitting that Big Boy had something to do with it. Some wines are so good that words feel inadequate, and this magnum of 1971 Krug was one of them. Its nose sparkled and crackled, like a flawless diamond meeting the Macy’s 4th of July fireworks show. It had an addictive quality to its nose; once you started you did not want to stop. White, crystallized fruits along with an icily great character, the Krug exploded in my mouth, resulting in a bevy of inappropriate and immature jokes from the distinguished guests around me lol. This bubbly had enough liftoff for Nasa; in fact, that’s what it finish felt like, those jets burning under a rocketship heading to outerspace, ready for the endless. This was an unbelievable magnum of a legendary Champagne (99M).

There was one more truly spectacular bottle on this night for me, before it all went sideways. The 1978 Roumier Bonnes Mares was decadent and rich, a mouthfilling wine that intellectually stimulated me, well, what little intellect that I had left at the time ;). But seriously, this was a ‘wow’ wine, as intense and virile an older Red Burgundy can be. There were deep red, black and purple fruits happening, lots of dirt and minerals, and a spiciness to it like hot sauce without the too hot. Its acidity was truly noteworthy, and it lingered like a great orgasm. As Bad Boy would say, “awesome juice”(98+).

Of course, what would a great flight of 40s and 50s Bordeaux be without a 1959 Lafite Rothschild? This has always been my favorite all-time Lafite and one of the greatest bottles of the 20th Century, and this bottle didn’t change either of those opinions. The ’59 had a superb nose of sweet cassis and pencil with a great perfumed quality. This was a rich, sumptuous and sensual claret. Andy admired its ‘smooth’ character, and I did its thick finish. Respect due to the only wine which appeared twice in my Dirty Dozen of 2016 (98+)!

See you next year at the dinner table! May 2017 be your best year yet!