There are weeks that are long, there are weeks that are short, and there are weeks that are an absolute blur. The latter tends to happen to me more often than most, and I am not saying it with pride. In the words of Sweet Lou, ‘It is what it is.’ A thousand emails, a hundred calls, a few flights and a whole lotta bottles will do that to a man. In the midst of one of those weeks, really it was ten days, there was one evening that made me see clearly, and that was a night dedicated to the most important producer in the world, Domaine de la Romanee Conti.

This was a Wine Workshop event, led by The Hamburglar, and if you haven’t been to a Wine Workshop event, and you live or frequent New York City, then what are you waiting for? The greatest wine events in the world are held by The Wine Workshop, and by the way, that will be truer than ever May 5-7 in 2017. You need to know, and you need to contact david@winewkshop.com ASAP if you want to participate in the type of evenings that I write about, because that one will be open to the public, and it will be at 11 Madison, Daniel and Per Se for those of you that care about food, too. Don’t send me those emails, ‘how can I get invited,’ because you just were : )

The 1993 DRC Romanee Conti had much more fruit with its open, red strawberry personality. It was more feminine, and ‘more young’ per one of our guests. The Hamburglar quoted the Burghound comparing LT to RC, saying ‘La Tache gives it to you, while RC makes you come and get it.’ The Punisher definitely got the RC, as it was his preferred wine. It was also rich and long, and a bit oily, with more green bean and cedar to go with its dry finish. It had lengthy acid, but it was more elegant. I was literally stunned to find out this was RC (95).

The 1991 DRC La Tache was darker, deeper and longer and much more expressive. This was a case of long and longer, and its rich and heavy profile was laden with dark, black and purple fruits. This was serious shtuff (97).

Of the first four wines, there were eight votes for the 1991 RC, four votes for the 1993 RC, five votes for the 1991 LT and three votes for the 1993 LT as favorite of the four.

The 1990 DRC La Tache was a bit lighter and Sgreener, with less acid. It was delicate by comparison, but it still had a brothy, soupy and delicious personality. It was more herbal, creamy with a long finish alongs with nice cedar and leather flavors. It gained in the glass, but it never quite caught up to the RC (97).

While the 1989 DRC La Tache was corked (DQ), the 1989 DRC Romanee Conti was not. It was a bit pungent and gamy as ’89s are prone to be. The Punisher again pegged the RC correctly and why shouldn’t he? He probably drinks more of it than any one I know. There was good rubber, leather and a lot of spank; it was a veritable sex shop of a wine. It kept gaining in the glass (95).

1985 was next, and the first of the pair had that good dirty ol’ South action. It was another rich wine, sensing a theme? Someone said, ‘it was too big in the mouth and too aromatic to be La Tache,’ and they were right, even though I guessed La Tache incorrectly again! This 1985 DRC Romanee Conti was delicious and chocolaty, minty and smooth, satiny with nice acid. Someone observed ‘The Finger of God’ (96M).

The 1985 DRC La Tache was brighter with a lot more menthol. It felt fresher in every which way, and mint and menthol kept coming up in my notes. This was a ‘Bright Lights, Big City’ wine, and a great example of this sometimes maligned vintage of La Tache (97).

The 1988 DRC La Tache was also corked (DQ),but the 1988 DRC Romanee Conti was just fine. It had a deep, iron nose and was ‘very tight’ per one guest. There was a lot of rock, paper and scissors in the house. This was a stony and zippy vintage of RC, or DRC for that matter, with minerals rippling throughout its finish. The acidity of RC stood out again. I was starting to figure it out 🙂 (95).

The 1983 DRC La Tache had a deeper, darker nose that was more intense. Its palate was rich, possessing thick, long yet fine tannins. It was more austere, ‘backwards’ per one guest, and its acid lingered in RC fashion. This has always been a spectacular vintage of La Tache, believe it (97).

The 1978 DRC Romanee Contiwas similar yet smoother. It was a softer and easier wine, delicious of course. I can’t remember who ‘HJ’ was, but he said, ‘Now that’s a spicy meatball’ (95).

I was surprised how much I preferred La Tache on this night, although all wines were in the outstanding to best wines of my life categories, here. There are many who feel within the first 30 years, La Tache gives more pleasure, and then after that the RCs start to take off, so to speak. This night would be a good exhibit for that argument, at least for me. I hope to be able to continue this debate on many occasions in the future! There are few wines that always bring Joy to the World, but for me, DRC is one of them. Have Yourself a Very DRC Christmas!

The only problem with a Bad Boy production is the party factor, as in it turns into a great party, rather quickly. Some, like Mr. Vinous and Dapper Dave, stayed studious to the very end and compiled many more notes than I. I started strong, but in the end I am a drinker, so of the 130 bottles, 16 magnums and 2 jeroboams that were opened, I managed notes for approximately 30 wines. While I feel quite inadequate at the moment, I felt more than adequate throughout the night.

The 1994 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne had corn, butter and cotton action, but it was tough to drink this after the previous two. 1994 is just not a great vintage, and after 20 years it was more obvious. It might have gotten a point plus higher if tasted first (90).

The first red wine I sampled was a nice warmup, a tasty 1986 Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos St. Jacques I have long been a not-so-secret admirer of the 1986 vintage in Burgundy, and this was a prime example why. A 1986 Drouhin Chambertin that I had at my recent Birthday auction was a great exhibit B. Both wines were autumnal and showing lean yet mean tannins and acid. This vintage has a bit of chains, and a lot of whip to it. The Rousseau showed sappy red fruit, giving it an even kinkier edge to the vintage than usual (93).

A 1952 DRC Richebourg was unfortunately a bit too autumnal and flat (DQ),so I segued back to the Champagnes with a stellar 1996 Jacques Selosse. Selosse always has this unique, baked bread soaked in oil style, where kink meets flesh, with a little sniffing glue thrown in. That’s the best way I can describe this Champagne that is adored by many, but not all, Champagne connoisseurs. Its ‘solera’ style of blending is even present in its rare vintage bottlings, of which I think there are only 200 cases ish when declared. I declared my affection for this laser show of a Champagne that sizzled on my palate (97).

It is always fun to taste Cristal versus Cristal Rose, especially when 1996. The last time I did this side by side, it was a real horse race, but now the Rose has pulled ahead. The 1996 Louis Roederer Cristal Rose was another sizzler, rock solid from first smell to its finish. There was so much strawberry goodness, and it didn’t suffer from being overly dry as many young Roses can. Its acidity sparkled (97).

The 1996 Louis Roederer Cristal was its usual butterscotchy self but not in the same class as the Rose, at least not this bottle. It was an outstanding Champagne, sweet and flirty, but but but…(95).

I tried two more 1996 Champagnes, unique expressions of Champagne, both Blanc de Noirs cuvees, if I am not mistaken, meaning all Pinot Noir. The first was a 1996 Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Francaises. It had an oxidative, vitamin style with unique Pinot flavors, and a bready personality. This was a limey, gamey Champagne which I liked, but didn’t love as much as some of the other top Cuvees (95).

The same could be said for the 1996 Billecart Salmon Clos St. Hillaire. Dapper Dave was all over its ‘oxidative’ style, and despite nice spritz and zip to its long finish, its different style stood out from the crowd, not in a better way, just different (95).

Ok, it was really time for some red wine, and The Queen was on cue with a spectacular bottle of 1978 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze. This was better than any bottle of this wine that I remember, and Mr. Vinous found it ‘ethereal,’ as well. Hollywood Jef summed it up in his own unique way, finding it ‘fucking good.’ This was a perfect bottle of this wine, with great citrus, red fruit, mint and forest aromas and flavors. It was creamy with perfect posture – aka great spine, and nothing else mattered while this bottle was open. I had seconds(98).

There were too many crazy wines being opened downstairs in the cellar to linger upstairs, so I headed back down to one of the wines of the night, and it was only fitting that Big Boy had something to do with it. Some wines are so good that words feel inadequate, and this magnum of 1971 Krug was one of them. Its nose sparkled and crackled, like a flawless diamond meeting the Macy’s 4th of July fireworks show. It had an addictive quality to its nose; once you started you did not want to stop. White, crystallized fruits along with an icily great character, the Krug exploded in my mouth, resulting in a bevy of inappropriate and immature jokes from the distinguished guests around me lol. This bubbly had enough liftoff for Nasa; in fact, that’s what it finish felt like, those jets burning under a rocketship heading to outerspace, ready for the endless. This was an unbelievable magnum of a legendary Champagne (99M).

A 1990 DRC Grands Echezeaux whizzed by like a fastball with no spin. While I feel GE is the best pound for pound wine in the DRC portfolio, this particular bottle got lost a bit after the Krug (94+).

A 1969 Dom Perignon Rose was very red and typically dirty, as old DP Roses are prone to be. Honestly, I am just not fans of them (90).

A palate-cleansing 2007 DRC Montrachet snuck into my glass, and it was awesome, the best vintage of the night for this wine, although the 1999 was handicapped. This was classic and forward yet tight, big and honeyed, long and stylish, kinky yet in control. 2007 was a great vintage for white Burgundy (96+).

There was one more truly spectacular bottle on this night for me, before it all went sideways. The 1978 Roumier Bonnes Mares was decadent and rich, a mouthfilling wine that intellectually stimulated me, well, what little intellect that I had left at the time ;). But seriously, this was a ‘wow’ wine, as intense and virile an older Red Burgundy can be. There were deep red, black and purple fruits happening, lots of dirt and minerals, and a spiciness to it like hot sauce without the too hot. Its acidity was truly noteworthy, and it lingered like a great orgasm. As Bad Boy would say, “awesome juice”(98+).

Alexander The Great and I tried to rally for a late night NYC sushi snack, but instead we rallied straight home for an immediate face plant. It was an incredible wine night, although I wish it was 3-4 days straight instead, as there was just too much great wine! Some of Dapper Dave’s “WOTNs”- that I didn’t taste – include 1971 DP Rose, 1961 Palmer, 1955 La Mission and 1957 and 1971 RC. Damnit! How did that happen lol. Oh well…shoutout to all the other ‘Vintage Tasting’ vets that were on the scene, but I was unable to catch a wine quote from: The Bulldog, The Ambassador, Neil Diamondz, The Negotiator, The Big Ticket and The Chairman. I told you it was like the Academy Awards lol.

I can definitely tell you that I am looking forward the next Bad Boy Birthday Bash, and many more!

The next Champagne was also outstanding, this one being a 1973 Krug Dinner had begun. The Krug had a great, fresh nose full of apples and crackers, with a touch of anisette. Its palate was long, zippy and tasty, with some ‘old school Creamsicle’ per Dapper Dave. The Krug had plenty of stuffing to it as well, but it had more balance, too (96).

There was a 1973 Dom Perignon Rose which was a dirty birdie of sorts, ‘grungy’ according to one of the guests. It was an accurate comment; I just never have loved old DP Roses (92).

The 2004 DRC Montrachet surprisingly felt a step behind, more surprisingly so because I recently had an all-star bottle of this. This bottle was more milky and yeasty with a bit of fresh pencil and a kiss of eucalyptus. It was creamy with green apple and corny goodness. It was buttery and sweet, yet oaky and austere. Maybe it needed a little more time, but time was not something we wanted to give with the red wines that were on tap (95).

Well, well, well, 1961 Petrus again, my second bottle in three months. That officially constitutes a good year, and while this was ‘freakishly great’ per the Dapper one, it didn’t quite hit the highest of high notes for me like the bottle I had with The Rev a couple months prior. Don’t get me wrong, this was still best wines of my life category, ie 97 points and up. This bottle had that rich and creamy Pomerol nose with plums, honey and sex all over the house. It was delicious and rich, chewy and deep purple, with traces of game and lots of exotic things happening that only happen abroad (97).

The 1978 Dujac Clos St. Denis was rich and beefy, ‘dirty’ per The Mogul. There’s a joke to be made in there somewhere, but the CSD got better and better as the dirt blew off, and the fruit blew in. There’s a joke to be made there, too, lol. 1978 is probably the greatest expression of Dujac ever, and after some air, the CSD showed why (96).

The 1969 Dujac Bonnes Mares was a rare bird, and its first commercial vintage, I believe. It had a rich and gamy nose, and Big Boy found it ‘crazy’ in a good way. There was lots of autumn howling in the glass, and its finish was neverending. This was a creamy and satiny wine, although it got more gamy with time. It was a ‘drink up’ kind of bottle (96).

The Grands Echezeaux almost stole the show, were it not for the biggest and baddest of them all, the RC, or ‘RC RC’ as many like to call it. The GE had everything you could ask in a ’71 DRC wine: beef, blood, menthol, citrus, red fruits, game and autumn leaves. There was a great expression of fruit perfectly balanced by its long finish, which was singing with acidity. The GE outperformed the next two wines/bottles on this rare occasion, but the RC showed why it is the most expensive wine in the world. It should almost be forbidden to open a bottle of this wine before it reaches age 30, as the older ones are where you can really taste the difference. On this amazing night, we were able to taste four differences for this legendary vintage of DRC, which may be drinking better for this Domaine than any other older, mature vintage as far as consistency and reliability.

Enjoy all of 2016’s Vintage Tastings and share in the unforgettable memories of the world’s greatest wines, tasted with the worlds greatest palates and collectors.

In case you missed one, here’s your opportunity to enjoy a recap of some of the most amazing wine experiences, as witnessed and described by our very own, John Kapon.

Open a bottle, sip, read and enjoy!