Vintage Tastings

By John Kapon

Experience the finest and rarest wines in the world through the eyes and palate of Acker Chairman and globally renowned master taster, John Kapon (our “JK”). “Vintage Tastings” is a written journal chronicling the incredible bottles opened at some of the most exclusive tastings, wine dinners, and events all over the globe. These entries represent JK’s commitment to capturing and sharing the ephemeral nature and ultimate privilege of tasting the world’s rarest wines. Although ratings are based on a 100-point scale, JK believes there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. Point scores assigned to each wine are his own personal attempt to quantify the quality of each experience.

EuroZoning

Long live the Euro? There is nothing quite like summer in Europe, and my annual pilgrimage all over the continent has already seen me in two cities, with five more in the next four days. And away we go. The wine bar has been set high thanks to a visit to one of the greatest collections in the world that I know. You’ll see more from him this September, but for now, let’s start with a small sampling that he shared this past Friday night.

The Usual Suspects

Everything was served blind, or supposed to be. The Champagnes accidently came out first, so we saw first up was a half-bottle of 1943 Pommery. It had a nice apple juice nose with a kiss of tangy rust. While completely lacking bubbles, it was not oxidized and still delicious. Its acidity was quite extraordinary, and its rich, caramel flavors lingered in this smooth and tasty wine. Champagne can get very wine-like when they get old (93H).

Dry Cleaning Service

We also saw the 1966 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Nicholas Francois. Our host noted ‘green apples,’ and there was also this seashell/seabreeze edge to it. Its nose was very vibrant, citrusy and zippy. Our host noted, ‘it was like a cream for the inside of your skin,’ admiring its texture and flavor. Its palate was grassy in an intense way, and it reminded me of a yellow corset. Elegant and long, the Billecart retained its zip, zig and zag in the glass, although there was a touch of cardboard to it that was what it was(94).

1966 Billecart

Ok, finally a blind wine. White, of course, and at first I was reminded of a late release Leroy. Someone found it ‘Sauvignon Blanc,’ and he was correct. Its pungent nose was full of yellow hay and grass aromas. Its palate was long and rich, and we concluded it had to be Dageneau, the master of the grape. It was, it being a 1997 Dageneau Pur Sang out of magnum. This was a twenty year old Sauvignon Blanc that was still young and ascending! Impressive. Its acidity was still great, and it was still so young. Butter and grapefruit flavors rounded out this masterful wine, which is a great alternative white that is world class without the wolrd class price tag(95M).

Old for the Grape, Young for the Wine

The next white wine was serious Burgundy, ‘as good as it gets,’ I wrote. The nose was kinky, sweet and sexy. There was a lot going on in this complicated wine. There were super fireplace aromas amongst its drippingly wet fruit. This was a crazy wine, ‘so kinky’ I wrote again. There were aromas and flavors of yellow, white and orange fruits, butter, honey, toast and leather, with the whips and chains. I was thinking Coche, and it was. Yeah, baby : ) This 1997 Coche-Dury Meursault Perrieres was spectacular. It was fat and ‘roasted,’ and even better than the 1996 that I had five days prior. That was still pretty damn good, too (97).

We were clearly in red Bordeaux territory with the next wine. It had a deep, rich nose of cassis, chocolate, coffee, bandaid, earth and a touch of garden goodness. There were lots of wild herbs and wild child action in this very old wine. The palate was tangy, rich and spicy with more chocolate and game flavors. It was revealed to be a 1928 Margaux, wow! There was so much power in this ancient warrior, a testament to the vintage. This was rich, sumptuous and saucy. Plush and long, the Margaux also had caramel flavors develop. While spectacular for the first glass and refill, it did start to fade with time, but by that time, there wasn’t much left. When wines are old, enjoy them right away and don’t hesitate (96).

We knew the next was a 1959 Margaux, as it got set aside during inspection due to an unusually short cork relative to the rest of the ones we packed up. So our host was like, ‘let’s drink it.’ Good call! There was no issue with this bottle, which was classy and smooth. ‘Mature cherries’ came from the crowd, and while not a thrilling example of Margaux, it was a classic one. It was fresh like clean glass, very round and nice(94).

Margaux Magic

The next wine I nailed. “1978 DRC” and I was right. That doesn’t happen too often lol. This was a perfect bottle, even sweeter than usual. There was so much character, with menthol, rust, autumn, ‘licorice’ and ‘fermented plums.’ Its acidity was remarkable, and its perfect nose incredibly perfumed. This 1978 DRC Grands Echezeaux was superb (96).

Perfect Companions

There was one more wine on this magical evening, and we were in Bordeaux again, and this time we suspected Pomerol. And Petrus, but guesses were about 10-20 years off for this incredible 1953 Petrus. It had a deep nose of black fruits, wheat, grains and berries with chocolate flavors galore. This was a butterfly of a wine with perfect balance and a stronger finish than most wines from this seductive vintage. Rich, sumptuous and sexxxy, this was ‘so juicy and easy to drink’ (97).

The Closer

Europe 2016 is off to a good start.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Da Plane, Da Plane

There have been some pretty special wine weekends in 2016. It is good to see people reaching deep and going long, so to speak. One of those weekends saw me in an unnamed steakhouse in Tampa. Actually it was 29 hours to be exact. Our trip was made much more efficient thanks to Operation Starfish, who arranged for a private plane down for our band of merry men and women. I need to do that more often.

An Unnamed Steakhouse In Tampa

Something it is almost impossible for me to do is drink more often, and drink we did. We gathered at Bunga Bunga’s before heading to the airport, where we were welcomed with a 1999 Coche-Dury Meursault. The Coche was delicious, as Coches are prone to be. If someone told me they could only drink one white wine producer, and it would be Coche, I couldn’t argue. The Meursaults are particularly good values, as they age quite well. They were better values before they tripled in price in the last few years (94).

Pre-game Warmup

Part One of our journey began on the plane, where we were able to provide our own inflight beverage service. We kicked things off with a 1985 Dom Perignon thanks to 12 Gauge. It was a classic bottle, as good as this vintage can get. There were aromas of vanilla, cream, nuts and sweet white sugar. Its palate was long and strong, and I wrote how this is the forgotten, great DP (96).

Proper In-flight Beverage Service

We moved quickly on to the Burgundies, which would keep us busy for most of our 150+ minute flight. The first was a 2002 Roumier Bonnes Mares that was a beauty. It had a classic nose that was smooth and still shy, but there was rusty, rosy, earthy and minty black fruits that kept growing and growing. While a bit in hibernation, the Roumier was sexy and satiny, tight yet great. There was more stuffing to this than the wine that followed. Pits called it a ‘Time Machine’ (96).

The 2002 Dujac Bonnes Mares was much more expressive with lots of grape and purple aromas. It was very fruit forward and creamy. Its violets were singing. Its nose was richer and more decadent than the Roumier, but the Roumier had much more booty. The Dujac was more ready and more pleasurable on this night, and Pits found it ‘bright’ (95).

A pair of 1990s was next, beginning with a 1990 Drouhin Chambertin. It was deep and open with lots of fruit and spice. Iron, earth and minerals provided a great frame for this sturdy and zippy wine. Rich and flavorful, it had a long finish with menthol kisses (94).

The 1990 Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques was sweet and gamy with aromas of cherry, mint, more red fruit and iodine. There was lots of spice and acidity with rusty orange flavors and thick slate on its finish. It was almost right thurr (96).

We began our initial descent with a 1964 Dom Perignon, which had an herbal essence to it, along with the usual suspects of vanilla and white sugar. I found it very similar to the ’85 qualitatively, and Alexander The Great noted ‘caramel.’ It got a bit woodsy but still held its own (96).

We made it to our ultimate destination and began with a 2005 Ramonet Bienvenues Batard Montrachet. It had a milky nose with a rich, meaty, honeyed and buttery flavor. It was tasty with caramel, corn and mint qualities (93).

Operation Starfish set the bar high off the list with a magnum of 1937 Lafite Rothschild. It was super classy in the nose, with aromas of pencil, cedar and nuts. It was a bit lighter in the palate, smooth and chalky with nice flavors and honey kisses. We discovered it was reconditioned at Bern’s in 1991. This was solid and classic in many ways, but, like almost every Bordeaux from the entire decade, only in the very good to excellent category (93M).

A 1953 Ponnelle Pommard Epenots was tight and acidic, yet it had lots of strawberry goodness. It was long and a bit bitey. 12 Gauge found it ‘alive and enjoyable, not gone but not glowing’ (90).

The 1962 DRC Romanee St. Vivant (Marey-Monge) had a deep, pungent nose full of bouillon and Asian spice. It was beautiful with smooth and tender beef satay flavors, and honey bean ones, too. There were flavors of garden and leaves with green and brown shades, all in autumnal mode. There was a nice swell of flavors to this mature red (94).

The last wine on this extended evening blew everything else away, but it wasn’t a Bordeaux or Burgundy. It was a 1964 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle. While the 1961 gets all the attention and sometimes deservedly so, there are many great, old La Chapelles. This 1964 was spectacular, equaling the quality of a different bottle already sampled this year. This is a special, secret wine! There were oceans of black and purple fruits to go with its rich, meaty personality. The garrigue qualities said Rhone all the way. It was so delicious, and it smoked everything. It had a great balance of fruit and acidity. ‘What a beautiful and special bottle,’ 12 Gauge concurred (98).

Sunday began with a very late breakfast, and I couldn’t help but notice WWE superstar John Cena having brunch at the hotel as well. I was so tempted to go flip over his table, flex in his face and then have an ultimate stare down, but I was too hungover. I’ll get him next time lol.

After some strenuous exercise, I found myself cooling down by the pool with some killer Champagnes, although the first was slightly affected. Operation Starfish found the 1990 Jacques Selosse ‘jumbled,’ and he was right. I only know because I had a near-perfect bottle just recently. I’ll get to that later, but per this bottle on this occasion (94A).

Brunch By The Pool

The 1985 Krug Clos du Mesnil showed why it is the Romanee-Conti of Champagne. It crushed and hushed the Selosse with its large and in charge personality. This was huuuuge like a Republican Presidential candidate. This was big like a butterball or a butterbomb, take your pick. ‘Brioche, cereal grains and clover honey’ came from 12 Gauge (97+).

A 1988 Raveneau Chablis Montee de Tonnerre was deliciously mature. There wasn’t much minerality left, but there were thick, yellow, sun-dried and tasty flavors. This was mature Chablis just hitting its stride, both gamy and good. ‘White and Acacia flowers’ came from the crowd (94).

The last “pool” wine was a 1999 DRC Romanee St. Vivant. 1999 + DRC = Legend! Aubert once casually mentioned to me that he thought that 1999 is the greatest vintage DRC ever made. I wouldn’t disagree. This was an awesome wine, concentrated yet pure. Its stony acidity sizzled, while its meaty and fleshy palate chewed up the rest of its fat. This was a long and strong wine, and as good as I remember any RSV from DRC…ever (96+).

Our second dinner saw us begin with a 1924 Leoville Las Cases magnum, which was stellar. It was recorked in 1974, and it was still decadent and sumptuous. Recorked wines are always better the more time they have in the bottle since being recorked. The ’24 held and grew in the glass. There were lots of vanilla and carob flavors, along with ‘currant, blackberry and blueberry’ (95M).

Bordeaux Mirages

The next wine was from one of my favorite, secret vintages in the last 100 years in Bordeaux. The 1922 Pichon Lalande had a great nose with big aromas of cedar, chocolate, aged cassis and smokehouse. Its palate was delicious, round and satiny. It was also smoky, rich and buttery. This was another sexy 1922. I have had maybe five wines from this vintage in the last couple of years, and they have all been delicious (95).

We continued with the 1922 Lagrange. ‘How good is that?’ I wrote. There was amazing cassis fruit. This was a wow wine; I thought it was fifty years younger! Long, round and soft, it was different in style than the Pichon, but equally qualitative. This was a dark forest of a wine (95).

Wintergreen, gingerbread and light molasses permeated through the nose of the 1942 Ausone. It had a soft palate that was interesting in a gamey and tangy way. There was a web to its way, and its flavors were sundried. Alexander The Great found lots of ‘iron’ in this gritty wine (93).

There was one more wine on our agenda, a 1978 Bouchard La Romanee. Its terroir shined through its rock solid structure. It was very vigorous and youthful, full of beef and bouillon flavors. It was tasty with great acidity. La Romanee is one of the greatest terroirs in Burgundy, no doubt (95).

We flew back after dinner because it was just that easy. We got back after midnight, but the slipper still fit. Mission accomplished thanks to our fearless leader, Operation Starfish. I will always be ready for duty, sir!

In Vino Veritas,
JK

Nomadness 2016

One early night in April in New York City, around thirty distinguished gentlemen gathered on the rooftop of the Nomad Hotel. This was a tradition like Leap Year, as it was not the first time we all gathered here, although some of the faces had changed. We had all gathered in celebration of fine wine, and we had an all-star lineup of assistance including Right Said Ned, The Raj Mahal, the Best Sommelier in the World and some guy named Slover. Most of all, we had to thank Sir Robert for organizing the event, and everyone left hoping he could organize it again next year.

A Menu Fit for Print

Cocktail hour began with magnums of 1993 Raveneau Chablis Les Clos, thanks to The Artful Roger. The Raveneau was just hitting its window of maturity with aromas of rainwater, and it was chock full o’ nuts. There were lots of yeasty yellow qualities on its nose and palate, which was rich and flavorful, and quite expressive. I’ve got 99 problems, but this wine ain’t one (94M).

Kickstart My Heart

A jeroboam of 2000 Roulot Meursault Perrieres luckily followed next. This would be the second jero of Roulot I had this year, and I would happily have more. This was a delicious wine, clean like the vintage, friendly and tasty. Like a typical Roulot wine, it was sheer drinking pleasure, although this was a wine from an atypically great vineyard. It had that classic Roulot kiss of ‘je ne sais quoi,’ except it was easy to know if you know Roulot. Roulot’s a living legend and I’ll tell you why; everyone wants to be him, and he’s still alive (96J).

We sat down to a 1979 Krug Collection magnum, and I was under-impressed by the particular magnum served to me. This is usually quite reliable, and there was nice fruit and freshness, but yeast, mildew and weediness were too prevalent. There were some rich buttery qualities, but when it came to this magnum, I wish I never met her at all (90M?).

There were two white wines served at the table, the first being a very rare magnum of 1986 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, I believe its first vintage. There were a lot of descriptors going on right away: toasty, smoky, smooth, creamy, honey, lush, game, white fruits and white smoke, to name a few. Its palate was rich and sweet, full of corn flavors and that ’86 kiss of botrytis, although still holding a lot in reserve. Creamy and long, the Coche kept getting more and more exotic, and tropical orange gained in the glass. They say you can’t turn a bad girl good, but once a good girl’s gone bad, she’s gone forever. The ’86 Coche was both oh so bad, yet oh so good, and it was far from gone. Is that a conundrum? Or maybe a blueprint (97M).

Use Your Illusion

The Punisher punished us all with a jero of 1985 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet. Its nose was raining honey, and its personality was definitely gamey. The color was darker as older white Burgs are prone to be, and the wine was A-OK. While more obvious at first, there was no doubting this wine was very tropical. It was oily and rich, and JS found it definitively ‘Leflaive.’ It was flyer than a piece of paper bearing my name (95J).

The evening officially went up a notch thanks to a methusaleh of 1971 DRC Richebourg, thanks to JS and Neil Diamondz. It was a great bottle. ‘It’s on,’ JS summed up. Crushed rose petals seeped out of its nose, which was royally sweet and exotic. Its palate was creamy and honeyed, full of wildflowers, and The Mogul found it ‘ladylike for a Richebourg.’ Aromas of honey, citrus and smackingly good red fruits joined the party. It was like hold up, who you smacking on? I was only trying to drink more of what we were all snacking on (97Mh).

A Perfect Ten

Big Boy and CB4 combined forces to officially detonate and dominate the evening with a spectacular jeroboam of 1971 DRC Romanee Conti. This wine was thick as a brick in every which way, and its fireplace qualities made way for mucho menthol. Its red and black fruit mÄ©lange was incroyable, and it was long and strong with great acid. Olivier found it still ‘young,’ and its personality was both huge and fresh. It doesn’t get any better than this. This was a celestial bottle, all in the stars, like Tony LaRussa on how you play your Cards (99J).

It Happened

A great flight of Giacosa ensued, although it had the disservice of following these Twin Towers, which had everyone giddy. The first wine was a 1971 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano (not Riserva). Aromas of leather and tar signaled we had moved on to Piedmont, and there was still lots of spice and acid left in this ’71. It was more impressive than I expected, with its leather and spice carrying over to the palate, which had rich fruit and great herbal qualities. Even though this wasn’t a Riserva, it was still damn good. The white label Giacosas still seem to fall under the radar, but if this wine could speak, it would probably say, “Look behind you, I’m about to pass you twice”(95).

Hey Mambo

The 1974 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was also delicious, but more mature. There were lots of cracker aromas, including wheat, rye and graham. This was fleshy, but also a bit muddy, and possessed lots more chocolate. 1974 is definitely a vintage to drink up when it comes to Italy, but it got better, we ordered another round (94).

The 1978 Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva was rock solid and classic in every which way. It was long and smooth, solid and laser-like with its precision. This was outstanding juice. I didn’t write much more to read all about it, but it got the job done. I’m not a businessman; I’m a business, man (96).

There was a moment of silence for the great Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux, who recently passed away unexpectedly from cancer, and we toasted him with magnums of 1983 Margaux. He was a great man, and one of the greatest ambassadors for wine to ever walk the Earth. He will be missed.

When it came to the final flight, it wasn’t about where we been, but where we’re about to go. A jeroboam of 1961 Latour was so youthful, it still seemed like infanticide! Black fruits and wheat dominated the nose, and violet and smoke were the supporting actors. The wine was rich, sumptuous and decadent but shy. The Mogul similarly found it ‘inside of itself,’ aka introverted. There was still depth to this behemoth, but it probably would have been just right at six in the morning (95+J).

The last wine on this starry night was an Imperial of 1959 Mouton Rothschild. Having had the wine out of bottle the very same week in Europe, this was what I call ‘good perspective.’ I love it when that happens. The Mouton was more open than the Latour, fleshier in style, rich and decadent. This was sumptuous and sexy juice. The Jackal found it ‘upfront’ and that it ‘seduces you.’ This wasn’t a building block wine; this was a block with buildings that makes a killin’ (97I).

Imperial Force

It was an amazing night that ultimately ended at about 3am, or so I heard, as I had to leave Cinderella style when the clock struck midnight, as I had an auction the next day. This was an epic night, one that showed that wine dreams do come true. Eternal thanks to Sir Robert for such a memorable evening. I will always sip from your cup ’til it runneth over. Holy Grail!

In Vino Veritas,
JK

The Emperor Strikes Back

When in Hong Kong, it is always a great pleasure to be a guest of honor of The Emperor. Alexander The Great and I came straight from Singapore for dinner in Hong Kong, and we were running 15 minutes late due to the natural course of events. Thankfully, The Emperor has an open door policy, and he did not remove our seats from the table for tardiness. If he did, I would have missed an incredible wine night fit for an emperor, The Emperor, to be exact.

The Emperor kept himself and his other guests busy with a magnum of 1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil, which was a big, rich, buttery beast, all the more so since it was out of magnum. It was razor sharp and mountainous in its character, long and strong. ‘The longer the better,’ The Emperor sagely advised, and it was easy to see why Clos du Mesnil is the Romanee-Conti of Champagne. This was a laser of Star Wars proportion (98+M).

No Better Way to Start

The Emperor definitely started with a 1-2 punch, as the next wine was a 1996 DRC Montrachet. Damn. This was an extraordinary bottle of white wine, showing that signature botrytis along with that Versailles garden action. Rich, long and buttery, this was still young by DRC Monty standards, as most are more developed by age twenty. There was this stony, mahogany edge that melted into an oily finish. The wine kept getting richer, and it developed this sexy, smoky caramel quality (98).

So So So Good

We inched into the reds with a 1937 Haut Brion. While the 1930s is generally considered a lost decade when it comes to Bordeaux, this HB showed admirably. It had a complex nose with aromas of caramel, bookshelf, mocha and some forest. Its palate was creamy and lush, fresh yet mature. There were candle wax kisses to its palate and nice leather on its finish, along with a touch of signature gravel. Secondary flavors of celery soda and molasses rounded out this toasty Haut Brion (94).

Trust Me It’s a 37

The 1928 Leoville Las Cases was recorked by Whitwham’s, a British company I believe, back when recorking was a little less controversial. The LLC had a chocolaty and earthy nose, and some green crept out. Vanilla and cream joined the party, and the longer tannins of the legendary ’28 vintage really shined. There was still finesse to this glassy red, and while the length and finish were superior to the Haut Brion, the character was not (93).

Still Going Strong

We went back to HB with a 1959 Haut Brion, which had a great nose that possessed rich cedar and smokehouse aromas and loads of cassis. There were black, smoky fruits here, along with rich, buttery flavors with lots of tobacco and more cassis. Iron aromas emerged, along with band-aid and Worcestershire flavors in a tertiary way. There was solid acid to this rock star Haut Brion (97).

1959 Power

The next wine was also from 1959, and ‘the best bottle I ever had,’ per Dr. Feelgood. I think he meant the particular wine, but it could have been every bottle ever as this 1959 Lafite Rothschild was staggeringly good. This was classic in every sense of the word. The cedar, the wheat, the pencil…this was a rich and thick wine that was as good as Bordeaux gets. Sebastien found it ‘deep,’ and there was super sweet fruit with a dry edge. The Emperor found it ‘flawless’ (99).

We finished with a pair of Burgundies, DRC, of course. The Emperor never disappoints! The 1985 DRC Grands Echezeaux was typical ’85 DRC with a lot of dirt and earth behind its sweet citrus and red fruits. It had a spicy, thick finish, but its palate was definitely riding dirty (94).

Close but Only One Cigar

The 1978 DRC La Tache was special, as always. Its nose was complicated in a good way with aromas of beef, bouillon, autumn, dried roses, citrus and menthol. This was all one could want from this vintage for DRC. It was briny and spiny, possessing excellent acidity. When we took votes for favorite wine of the night, three of the ladies in our group picked La Tache. Ladies love La Tache (96).

The Happy Recap

The four most experienced palates voted for the Lafite, while the Haut Brion got two votes. Bordeaux showed why it is still great, just give it some time. Long live The Emperor.

In Vino Veritas,
JK

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