A week after packing up Wolf’s cellar ”“ at least what he parted with, I should say ”“ I was back in Switzerland for a most special dinner hosted by one of Wolf’s dearest friends. It was a belated 60th birthday party for Hans Jorg (born in 1947), but I don’t think anyone minded much that it was a year late after being treated to an extraordinary lineup. When it comes to Wolf and his wine-drinking friends, apples do not fall far from the tree!

We started with a welcome 1998 Billecart Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois. It had a warm, inviting nose full of mature, yeasty notes, bright yellow sun-baked fruits and perfect toast. The palate was rich, creamy, spritely and delicious, full of vanilla and citrus flavors, and I was quite impressed given it was a 1998. There wasn’t the weight there of a truly great vintage, and its acidity was quite civilized, but it should provide excellent and earlier drinking pleasure for a while still (93).

We sat down to the first ‘official’ wine of the night, which was also a bubbly. There was only one rule for the night ”“ everyone must drink everything! A deep gold color and very slight petillance had every one guessing which 1947 Champagne it was. There was just a bubble here and a bubble there. Its pungent nose had lots of vanilla, almost a vanilla crunchiness to it, and there was also wood, caramel, straw and a combination of wet hay and wet grass. There was better sprite in the mouth, a Chateldon quality of a sparkle, very fine but bright with its lemony goodness. Hints of minerals, wet rocks and earth rounded it out at first. This bubbly kept changing, though, and its secondary aromas were all about dried fruits extraordinaire, this combination of apricot, peach, pineapple and banana peel. It got more stewed, in a good way, and the palate flirted with outstanding, but there was a hint of lightness in the middle. Some caviar brought it across the border; however, we were a bit shocked to find out this was a 1979 Krug Collection, out of magnum nonetheless. I have had infantile bottles of this, so even though this magnum was still outstanding, it was definitely a touch advanced (95A-M).

We had one white wine on this night, a white Burgundy, of course, also served out of magnum. It had a gorgeous nose, honeyed and dressed in white with aromas of acacia, lilac and honeysuckle. On the one hand, it was so sweet and so tropical, but on the other hand still so poised. All the shades of honey joined the party ”“ suckle, comb, nectar”¦even honeydew. Its floral components were definitely all white. The palate was round and softer than the nose, perhaps muted by the cold temperature at which it was served, but the white was still seemingly mature with its integrated acidity despite its youthful flavors. I noted that its acidity could also have been lost in its opulence, and sure enough the broth that came shortly thereafter helped the acidity emerge. Wolf observed, ‘honey, pineapple and botrytis.’ We were thinking ’85 or ’90, shocked to find out it was a 2001 Drouhin Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche! It was a fascinating follow up to the 2000 I had the night before, showing a lot of botrytis, indeed (93M).

It was time to get serious with some red, red wine. The first red had a great, old nose with the cobwebs, dust and leather, but still fragrance to its fruit. Sweet black cherry, cassis, a pinch of animal and an almost Asian, spicy glaze were all there in this alive and complex nose. Caramel started oozing out, along with some sautéed green beans. The palate was a bit simpler, ‘volatile’ per Wolf, who still conceded ‘beautiful sweetness,’ a ‘the sweetness of death.’ The palate was honeyed with hints of raisin and fig, round and fleshy without the flesh, lush without being chewy. It was soft, tender and caressing in the mouth, with dusty flavors of candle wax and walnuts. The intensity factor wasn’t much, but the beauty was still there in this magnum of 1947 Latour, and that is that ‘sweetness of death’ to which Wolf earlier referred (92M).

The next wine’s nose was all about the graham cracker at first, with chocolate behind it. It flirted with smores but was not that sweet. It was more gamy and ‘waxy’(Wolf, of course), with aromas of dried nuts and shells. The palate was rich and had excellent mouth feel and grip with its great citric spice, tang and long finish. Even Wolf cooed about its length. The wine was round, rich, tangy and long, still with excellent acidity. Flavors of carob and tobacco and a signature gravelly finish rounded out this excellent magnum of 1947 Haut Brion (94M).

The next red was also out of magnum, much lighter in color but still all about Bordeaux. There was a perfect balance of nut and cedar, complemented by an equally beautiful balance of fruits and nuts, along with ‘sweet roses.’ The nose was incredibly harmonious; rich, soft and tender with pinches of gas and earth. ‘Sweet and mellow,’ Wolf admired, calling it ‘more refined.’ Lafite? Ausone? This was grace in a glass, a charming, tender and easy wine, and sure enough was a magnum of 1947 Lafite Rothschild, what would turn out to be the most elegant wine of the night (94M).

The quality continued with a much deeper nose. Aromas of olive, forest, mushroom gravy, black fruits and a cardamom or something of the sorts were all present in this big nose. The palate was noticeably dry, a bit sun burnt in a black sand way. There were more tannins and tobacco present in this gritty red. It was not as seductive as the Lafite, but sometimes a spanking is in order lol. I liked the vigor in this magnum of 1947 Calon Segur. It was more muscle than charm, a sturdy, schoolyard bully of a ’47, and excellent though perhaps a hint brutish (93+M).

The next two reds stole the show, as they should have. The first had great cobwebs in the nose, like walking into a tomb full of wine treasure. Dust, leather, earth, carob and caramel were all there in supporting roles. A hint of Mouton mint and menthol crept in, but this was not Mouton. The palate was rich and saucy, chocolaty and minty. The acidity was superb and noticeably long, giving tremendous lift to an already spicy finish. Everyone quickly agreed that this was wine of the night, a true ‘palate coater.’ This magnum of 1947 Ausone was worth a trip to Switzerland! It was so minty and so delicious, rusty and spiny to the last drop. Traces of gardenia lingered in my empty glass (97M).

The obligatory magnum of 1947 Cheval Blanc followed. Oh, if you insist. The nose was coffee city; rich, concentrated and saucy. It, too, had excellent acidity and was very hearty, spicy and long. 1947 was a Right Bank year, after all. It became classically port-like with a little air time. Flavors of caramel, chocolate and motor oil were all there, and there was no doubting the quality of its intense grit, spice and spine. Walter, aka ‘Mr. Cheval Blanc,’ blessed the wine, so we knew we were good 🙂 The Ausone and Cheval were practically a dead heat, but in the end I preferred the Ausone. Walter then got up and proceeded to give a warm, heartfelt speech. Too bad it was in German lol (96+M).

But it wasn’t over! There were two dessert wines to go, the first being a 1967 Yquem. The Yquem’s nose was sweet and musky, classic with its candle wax, nut and caramel aromas. While it came across mature, its color was so young. Wolf picked on it, citing ‘a hint of bitterness and not quite perfect.’ After getting to know Wolf’s collection intimately, it is easier to understand how ‘not quite perfect’ is a letdown! It was still clean and fresh to me, with delicious flavors of caramel, orange marmalade, butterscotch, peach and apricot. It didn’t last long in my glass – yum (96).

The second Sauternes had a milder nose with more wax and honey to it and also seemed deeper, thicker and nuttier. The palate was much richer and oilier, full of coconut and smoke flavors. There was more acidity and pop here, but the 1947 Rieussec gave a clumsier impression and seemed simpler over time, albeit still excellent in its own right (94).

Happy Birthday Hans Jorg. To many more!

After a hard week packing up Wolfgang’s cellar, or should I say half of it, Wolf rewarded us with a tremendous dinner at Zum Gupf, a spectacular mountain retreat near Appenzell where you can actually see Germany and Austria. We sampled a quintet of wines from his cellar, featuring a pair of Romanee Contis and Leroys, two of his favorite things.

First, we set the table with a 1996 Krug clos du Mesnil. The razor-like acidity was incredible at first whiff, slicing through my nose with ninja-like dexterity. The nose was pure Krug with its vanilla cream and bright citrus rainbow. The palate was so fresh and zippy but somehow reserved. Its flavors still manged to last on my palate for over a minute. It reminded me of Romanee Conti (RC) with its extraordinary subtlety yet length. There were excellent traces of nut and wood in this Champagne that is as good as it gets (98+).

The 1982 Montrachet had a deep color and fantastic nose with an amazing balance of smoke and sweetness. Aromas of forest and Szechuan oil without the spicy edge graced its regal nose, along with butter, caramel and honey. Its palate was rich and sweet with lots of root vegetable flavors. Wolf found that it ‘shows botrytis,’ but its sweetness was not over the top, and it was in a perfect spot at age 26. The acisity was still solid even though the wine just melted in the mouth. There was great dust expression as well as well as toffee crunch flavors, and a ‘scotch-like complexity’ per Justin. Hints of mesquite rounded out this rich, supple and perfect expression of mature Montrachet (95).

A 1990 Leroy Latricieres Chambertin needed a minute to blow off its oak, but after that aromas of cherry oil, forest, earth, mint and basil. This was certainly a bull in the burgundy shop lol. Black cherry and strawberry joined the party, and this exotic Thai curry (wow!) along with cinnamon. The wine was a bit brutish after the Montrachet but still excellent and signature in style of Leroy. It got more Asian in its spice with a refill, its big beefy flavors balancing well with its leather, spice and spine. It got more purple in its nose, and a debate ensued whether this was poetry or rap. Either way, it had something to say (93).

The 1990 Leroy Richebourg was much beefier and brawnier, very brooding in style. Again, there was this initial whiff of wood, along with sesame oil and crunch. More animalistic, the Richebourg also had much more power, again big and bruising with more slate and mineral this time. It got saucier in the glass, concentrated and exotic, thick, burly and rich with its meaty flavors of beef and cola. Bouillon emerged, along with smoked almonds (95+).

The 1983 Romanee Conti was a fitting farewell. Exotic aromas of mint and vanilla first emerged, along with some tutti frutti and a hint of rot. It was still concentrated yet also light on its feet. The palate was thick and lush, so RC. The mint morphed into more spice cabinet, and rust crept in. It had that gout de terroir and rich, delicious menthol flavors. Its acidity was still remarkable for 1983, a year that always seems to setll please me when it comes to the best producers. There is no doubt that this is one of them (95).

It was a small selection, but one that proved the point yet again what a special cellar this is. I will always drink to it.

I have been traveling across Europe for the better part of two weeks. The first week was all work, packing up the cellar of Wolfgang Grunewald in scenic Switzerland. While we probably should have spent seven or eight days on the job inspecting and packing the some-odd 800 cases for shipment, we managed to jam it into five days in true Acker fashion, including a couple of 2-3am nights. It was well worth it; it was a thrilling cellar to inspect, and it should be the most significant sale of the entire market’s Fall season.

Wolfgang, a healthy and vigorous 78-year old whose passion for life is as great as it’s ever been, has been collecting wines for over thirty years, much of it with his dear friend Bipin Desai. Together they sought after the best of the best for decades, not only for their collections, but also to experience. It was an epic journey of tastings and dinners throughout America and Europe, leaving a trail of thousands of empty bottles behind, one that still continues to this day. Of course, we tasted a few things during that week with Wolf, but I will get to that soon enough, as I will more about Wolf and his cellar. Suffice it to say for now that it is one of the last great and grand collections of the 20th century, a testament not only to the man himself, but also to a golden era of discovery for those passionate about the grape.

So we finished up on the 12th, but there was a significant tasting of 1947s the following Friday, again in Switzerland, so I figured it was finally a good time to take a long, overdue trip to Burgundy in between. The Don, Doug, Brian, the Rock and the Burghound were all already there, or scheduled to be there, so it was as good a time as any to be there myself for the first time since I was a child. I had been meaning to come to Burgundy for a long time, but never quite seemed to make it. I can safely say, after spending a few days nestled away in beautiful Beaune, that I will be back very soon. Beaune is an amazing little ‘ville,’ with a neighborly, Old World feel, where life centers around wine, lunch and dinner. Sounds like paradise, right? Well, it was to me, and I highly recommend a trip to Beaune if you ever want to get lost in the countryside, or under the dinner table, for a few days, which is exactly what I did.

I basically came to decompress. There were a couple of significant appointments that I was able to make, but for the most part, the week was recovering from the strenuous week prior, and catching up on a lot of paperwork as well. Lunch and dinner were significant parts of the day, none more significant than the dinner we had on Bastille Day, which was also a birthday celebration for Doug Barzelay, one of Burgundy’s most knowledgeable and experienced collectors, who appropriately was born on France’s version of independence day. Eight of us gathered at the L’Hotel de Beaune, including Louis Michel Liger-Belair, one of Burgundy’s youngest shining stars.

The evening started innocently enough with a 1999 Philipponat Clos des Goisses, which had a pungent nose that was on the anise side with aromas of wet hay and citrus, but also possessing roses and minerals. It had rocket-like acidity, with rocky and racy flavors of pungent pee and wet hay. While certainly fresh, it lacked a bit of depth that I had hoped for based on the nose, but it was still an intense bubbly built for the long haul (93).

A pair of 1979 whites was the official welcome to dinner, beginning with a 1979 Ramonet Bienvenues Batard Montrachet. A clean yet tangy nose flirted with pungency, possessing good stink. Aromas of earth, mesquite and indoor cleaner resulted in a nose that was fresher than I expected. There were not yet as many mature nuances here, and the wine was more lemony and zippy. There was a hint of a cement, oak and nut mix like a faceful of sidewalk tree stump lol. Theacidity here was special, and while its flavors stayed on the pungent side, it was the clear preference and admired by all (94).

A 1979 Coche-Dury Meursaul Perrieres was unfortunately a bit corked, although it wasn’t blatant or so dominant that the wine couldn’t be evaluated a bit. There was a balance of old and new here in its earthy and yeasty nose, one balanced by warm lemon notes. Orange blossom slowly emerged, as did a BBQ stink. There were a lot of cement flavors in this ‘overpowering’ white, one that was ‘hinting at nuttiness but beyond that,’ per the Rock. Flavors of poached yellow tomatoes also joined the party in this ’79, whose acidity was still solid. Doug finally conceded its mustiness, saying ‘I thought it would clean up, but it didn’t.’ There were still some exotic and meaty flavors to this unfortunately affected bottle of Coche (92A).

Speaking of affected bottles, there were unfortunately a pair of oxidized old Ramonets, or Ramonet-Prudhons as they were back in 1962 and 1971. The 1962 Ramonet-Prudhon Batard Montrachet had one of the more offensive noses I had encountered, so much so that I was scared to even taste it. It smelled like dirty sea dock that was ready for a horror movie scene. It did taste better than it smelled, but it was clearly shot (DQ). The 1971 was not that bad, and ‘still pleasant,’ as one put it, though clearly affected and not what it woulda/coulda/shoulda. It still had a very exotic nose, yeasty but with this Galiano cake meets orange blossom honey thing happening. There were tea-like flavors in this soft and round white that had ‘lost its fruit,’ as Doug observed, but its nose continued to get more exotic and very marmelade-like. ‘Apricot jam’ and ‘a hint of basil’ were also noted in this simpler-than-it-could-have-been white, which was still ok andpalatable but affected (88A).

It was a tough start for this tough crowd. Between Doug and the Rock, praise can be difficult to come by! However, we marched on, and things would soon right themselves in dramatic fashion once we got to the reds. There was still one more white, a 1992 Lafon Montrachet, a quick emergency substitute due to all the issues with the whites. Its nose was buttery and toasty with nice perfume and ‘Georgia peach’ per our Georgia Peach of a guest. One could smell the botrytis in its sweet corn aromas, and the Rock observed how there was ‘both sur-maturite and drying qualities; I am not sure how that can be.’ I liked its smoky nose and the additional aromas of earth, caramel and lit match. The palate was round and yeasty, also a bit Botrytissed. The Rock and I got into a debate about ratings when I asked him what he would score this wine, and he said ‘89 points.’ When I scoffed at such a low score for what I would categorize as still a very good wine (92 points), albeit one on the decline, the swords were quickly drawn. ‘You’re smoking crack,’ I was told, and I countered how he was part of the ‘No Joy, No Luck Club.’ Doug is the President, by the way, lol. We quickly settled on an 89-92 rating, and the Rock convinced me to average down after accurately describing how the wine lacked that ‘excitement factor’ that he seeks. All in good fun (91).

A pair of glorious 1937s were next, beginning with a great bottle of 1937 Echezeaux. Aromas of green olives danced on a platform of ripe brown sugar and oat, combined with tomato and Worcestershire. This was a heady and saucy wine, still with sold t ‘n a in its nose. Someone noted ‘licorice’ in the nose, and benevolent ‘rubber’ on the palate. Superb brown sugar flavors graced its rich and saucy palate. Sweet, black and red cherry flavors balanced with its hearty acidity. I could see it being a touch too ripe for some, since it was so ‘hedonistic.’ I was quickly skewered for my use of the word, and despite that, everyone was in agreement that this was an outstanding and impressive bottle (95).

The 1937 Drouhin Bonnes Mares was equally as glorious, although stylistically much different. The nose was more reserved compared to the Echezeaux, although sweet cherry slowly fought through a wall of smoke, earth, freshly cut green grass, a green grass that almost flirted with honeydew. A syrup edge emerged as its nose became more cherry and more vanilla with time in the glass. While the Drouhin was not as over the top as the , the acidity was superb in this dusty delectable. Someone compared the two ‘37s to ‘chocolate cake versus a tart,’ the being the cake. It was also joked that one ‘could bring home the Bonnes Mares to Mom.’ The Rock was all over the ‘elegance’ of the Drouhin, scoring it 97 points to 94 points for the . He was wrong again 🙂 (96).

A rare pair of Liger-Belairs were next, both original bottlings, all the more special in the presence of Louis Michel Liger-Belair. First was a 1906 Liger-Belair La Romanee. The nose was great; deep yet reticent and on the black and purple side, still pungent and fresh despite being age 102. The nose morphed into aromas of mint and curry while its fruit focused into blackberry and boysenberry. Traces of spine and spice were still alive and kicking after all these years. The palate was rich but had a bit of a metallic edge at first, but it blew off into a soft, leathery edge. The acidity was still intense, and everyone was ooh-ing and aah-ing over this ancient relic. Violet and sweet black fruit flavors still sung in this citric, dusty and vibrant ’06”¦1906. The Rock summed it up, comparing the ’06 to a ‘school yard bully. It beats the crap out of everyone in its way. It’s not elegant, but it sure is powerful’ (96).

The 1921 Liger-Belair La Tache was also extraordinary, similar in style to the ’06, but a touch younger in its fruit, and also deeper. Louis Michel probably still has nightmares about his family’s decision to sell off what is now one of the most legendary wine properties in the world. Cigar and old wood aromas graced its nose, along with earth, celery, more dirt and a bit of ass. The palate has excellent concentration and tasty cherry and raspberry oil flavors in this beautiful and classy wine. Overall, the wine was softer and gentler than the La Romanee. ‘The ’06 has more profundity,’ the Rock interjected, ‘the ’21 has a few off notes.’ Doug joined in, observing, ‘volatile acidity’ in the ’21. ‘Geez, I would hate to apply to college with you two reviewing the applications,’ I replied (94).

A curious fellow, a 1909 Café Voisin Chambertin, was our last red wine of the evening, and this was a bottle brought specifically for Allen, as 1909 was one of the two vintages of the 20th century that he had not yet sampled. 1902 is the other, for those of you that want to get him a Christmas present later this year. This was more of a curiosity-killed-the-Burghound wine than something that Doug had to have, and the wine did have a bit of a maderized edge, full of paint thinner aromas but sturdy accordingly. There was lots of VA here, as well as rich, coffee sambuca and oatmeal flavors. There was still solid acidity in this rarely-seen vintage, but the wine was a bit over the top, like someone who has gone to the doctor for a bit too much plastic surgery, except in an old school Burgundy way (90).

There was one more glorious wine on this magical evening, a 1947 Rieussec, although I am not sure if any of the attendees would ever admit it, being thedevoted Burgundy worshippers that they are. Classic aromas of candle wax and honey combined with rich, nutty, creamy and delicious flavors. The finish was still dry in this sweet wine, one that also had Turkish apricot flavors as well. Yum (94).

Happy Birthday, Doug, and here are some brief observations about the rest of my days in Beaune, because if I don’t write them up here, I never will. Yes, there are thousands more just like them. I’m trying!

AND”¦

Dinner with Frederic Drouhin (gonna try to write that one up separately)
All the 2007 Liger-Belairs
A bunch of 2006 whites including Niellon Batard Montrachet

So, where to begin”¦

Let’s start with the 2006 whites. I was most impressed by this mini-assortment the Don treated me too, having had no experience with the vintage. We had at least six or seven premier crus, from one of Pierre Yves Colin’s St. Aubins to Marc’s Chassagne, a new Moreau, a Colin-Deleger, and others, ending with the Niellon. I didn’t take notes, but my memory still servesme correctly in that I found all of these wines to be clean, refreshing, tasty and moderately age-able. It reminded me of something I like to say often: ‘great producers make great wine every year; some years you just want to drink sooner.’ I think 2006 might last a little bit longer and offer more joy than most people think, given the enormous shadow that 2005 has cast upon it. Checka check ‘em out.

How about the 2007 reds? It seems to be the consensus that this will be a tough vintage for Burgundy, but again, the top of the pyramid will prove enjoyable and quality. The barrel tasting at Liger-Belair was impressive, to say the least, especially given all the different properties being managed and bottled. Louis Michel’s commitment to quality and drive to be one of Burgundy’s most significant estates is clearly self-evident, and given his youthful age, significant land holdings and access, and significant training and schooling, I think he will be one of the shining stars in Burgundy for my generation. It’s like when you see on Billboard’s ‘Top 40’ chart, ‘with a bullet.’ That could very well describe Louis Michel’s rapid ascension into the ranks of Burgundy’s elite producers.

Of the others, most of the scores are self-evident; the ‘A’ffected wines were both slightly corked, and the ’02 Coche disappointing (or just overly masked), as I am a big fan of their Puligny”¦have to try that one again!

There are two wines that I will share my full notes on”¦the Dujac and the Kola”¦.just because.

The 2005 Dujac Clos de la Roche was an interesting follow-up, as 05s would have it, to the 2005 Ponsot Clos de la Roche that we had out of magnum in Switzerland. Whoa! I know that drinking a magnum of that is infanticide, but when there are no bottles and only one magnum on a wine list, and the magnum is priced the same as bottles are already trading (and there are sixthirsty guests with us), what’s a wine lover to do? Drink the damn thing before someone else does, that’s what! The Ponsot was so concentrated and thick, brimming with every possible fruit imaginable that it felt X-rated just smelling it. However, on the palate, at least out of magnum, it was very shutdown and closed already and difficult to evaluate, although there was no doubting its potential greatness. I have to admit I felt bad about opening it, but then again, if I didn’t, someone else would have :). Ok, back to the Dujac”¦this was much more classic in its expression, its blackberry fruit mixing with the earth, the leather, the spice, the citrus and the rust. The blend of earth, pitch and spice were tremendous. The palate also had great definition, lip-smackingly good, with very defined acidity and fresh, balanced hints of citrus, green bean and mahogany spice. This was super stuff, already bordering on legendary. The nose was deep, deep inside, deep deep down inside (that’s for all you house music fans). Blackberry and cola joined the party, and the palate was so expressive, just popping out of its pants. Special stuff, and it will be sure to climb the point ladder in time (96+).

The 1864 Kola was something old, odd and rare dug up by the Rock. It was a Burgundy shaped bottle, and it barely had a label, just 1864 Kola in practically calligraphy on a small strip, very old in appearance and nature. What was inside was a glorious Madeira, but was it real Madeira, or actually Pinot gone wild? Perhaps the original recipe for Coca-Cola? Well, all that we will never know, but it was damn good, whatever it was, basically a Malmsey-style Madeira, thick and syrupy in its nose with aromas of baked, brown-sugared beans and sweet raisins. It was a definite sinus-cleaner, with a rainbow of nut aromas and flavors, macadamia meeting molasses. The owner of Ma Cuisine observed, ‘C’est bon, a little sweet but the alcohol (is impressive)”¦’ It was so rich, so concentrated and so full of alcohol, incredibly delicious, both hearty and soft at the same time, and a slice of history that will most likely never be seen again. Thanks to the Rock for that one (95).

Burgundy was beautiful, breathtaking for its scenery, wines and people behind them. I can’t believe it took me so long to visit. I will be back soon.

Here’s wishing everyone a happy 4th of July with an article about”¦Beijing, or rather my recent trip to Beijing before our inaugural Hong Kong auction, interrupting my not-so-recent ‘Four in a Row’ series of articles. Better late than never, I know. But, in a way, I can’t help but notice the irony, and I can assure you it was strictly unintentional! Without getting into a social and economic paper about it, let’s just say that China has got the world’s attention with its blistering economy, not to mention all the profits it is making for foreign companies as well. Is it me, or do Americans seem to be getting fatter and lazier? Well, the Chinese are hungry, and they are coming, three or four for every American, too. It is clear to me that China is the world’s next superpower, and I hope America will continue to keep up. Work, people!

Where were we”¦Bipin’s auction was Wednesday night the 21st of May, and I was off to Hong Kong on the 22nd, meaning that I got there on the 23rd. Time flies when you head to the Far East. Before I could say ‘ni hao,’ I was off to Beijing that Saturday morning to attend the International Congress of Chinese Cuisine and Wine’s seminar, featuring sessions of Penfolds Grange and Chateau Margaux, led by Peter Gago and Paul Pontallier respectively. Robert Parker was actually in Beijing this very same weekend, but doing a different event.

It was my first trip to Beijing, and the first thing that I noticed upon descending into this great and emerging city was the haze that surrounds it. The pollution is definitely a problem, and one could argue that there is no sky once inside this bustling metropolis, where bicycles still seem to be as equally as popular as cars for transportation, undoubtedly a financial consideration for many. However, one could not help but feel the energy of the city, building away and growing rapidly by the minute, the anticipation and pride of the Olympics everywhere. Despite the overall ‘gray’ feel, and the shadows of deep-rooted Communism still lurking, one could still appreciate the change that has and will continue to take place, especially when discussing with those that had been there even ten years prior.

I was a bit discombobulated, and by the time we had gotten settled in, I had to crash for a power nap, one from which I could barely resuscitate. I stumbled downstairs to seven vintages of Grange, and although I thought I wasn’t going to be able to take notes, after a few sips and spits, I got into the zone for Australia’s first growth, which averages between 7,000-9,000 cases a year.

The first vintage of Grange was the 1977 Penfolds Grange, which was very oaky in the nose. 91% Shiraz, 9% Cab and eighteen months in 100% American new oak were the staples of this vintage, although Peter said about the Grange recipe that ‘nothing was pre-ordained, nothing formulized, but there is a template.’ This was a vintage that had blown me away about three or so years ago, only to disappoint me on the following occasions. This was again a bit disappointing given that one magical bottle I had with the Colonel in LA. Aromas of tea followed the oak, and it did sweeten out a bit to reveal dark black cherry fruit and eucalyptus. Overall, I found it a bit square and unforgiving, but I was still getting my sea legs back (90?).

The 1980 Penfolds Grange was 4% Cabernet and spent 19 months is 100% new oak. It was much more my speed of Grange, elegant and more Burgundian in style while still possessing that sweet, signature Aussie fruit. Horseradish (!) jumped from the nose, and Gil found it ‘herbal’ in a good way. Its sweet, musky nose signaled ‘home sweet home’ as far as Grange goes. There was nice roundness in the mouth, with excellent spice and better acidity than the 1977. It was just beautiful and in a great spot right now (94).

The trong>1982 Penfolds Grange (6% Cab, 19 months oak) Gil found to be ‘a fruitier nature, more the style of Grange.’ There were bright red fruits in the nose and more citricity, and still that eucalyptus glaze in a good way. Its flavors were round and spicy, with red fruits and confectioners’ notes with a leathery spank, and excellent acidity (95).

The 1990 Penfolds Grange was a strange fellow, causing Gil to question, ‘chemical?’ It was very shut down in the nose compared to the ’80 and 82, although matchstick and mint were slow to emerge, as well as a black cherry core. There was deeper concentration here in the ’90 if you had the patience to dig that deeply. More blackberry nuances emerged. It was much blacker in its fruit flavors, thick and with lots of citricity, a much beefier style of Grange. Down the road, this might emerge as the best of the bunch, but not for a while if ever (93+).

The 1994 Penfolds Grange (11% Cabernet, 18 months in oak) Gil kept cooing over. I got unusual but benevolent rubber tire and cola in the nose, along with more typical eucalyptus, menthol, black licorice and a mélange of cassis and black cherry. Peter felt the 1994 ‘calls out for food.’ It did have huge t ‘n a with a tidal wave of a finish and great minerality. Big, long and massive with port-like flavors, this ’94 left the 1990 in the dust as far as the matchup of the two heavyweight styles went (95+).

The 1999 Penfolds Grange was a rare 100% Shiraz and spent 17 months in oak. Gil observed, ‘classic eucalyptus and mintiness from the wood,’ jokingly calling it ‘koala food’ lol. I found the ’99 more medicinal, perhaps due to the lack of Cabernet, I wondered, along with a weird fruitiness to it, still very aromatic but a touch sickly. Its flavors were more classically in line, but still very youngand hot with spicy szechuan flavors (92).

The 2002 Penfolds Grange was the last on our list this afternoon, recently released and only 1.5% Cabernet, also spending 17 months in oak. Gil called out ‘mandarin rind.’ It was also red in style, full of cherry and dust. More complex than the 1999, it had sweet cola flavors along with lots of citricity and just a pinch of medicine. There was more regal breed and elegance in the ’02, and it was thick, rich and young (ahhh to be that”¦I suppose the thick part is a result of the rich and young lol). Gil admired its ‘great potential.’ It still retained elegance despite having enough stuffing to make up for a lot of other Australian turkeys (94+).

I think I crashed again after that, only to wake up for a midnight snack and then retire again. The next morning we were off to the Great Wall with Gil, Paul Pontallier and his wife amongst others. It was about a ninety-minute drive, and upon arriving to the Wall, at least the part we went to, there was a hill of shack shops selling t-shirts, hats, umbrellas, sandals, dried fruits, nuts, water etc. I needed a hat and some sandals, and fierce negotiations began. I nearly went under due to the competition for my business, as aggressive women waved things in my face, changing their prices by the minute. Thankfully Gil, who lived in Hong Kong for ten years, assumed negotiations for me and closed the deal. It was a bit overwhelming, even for a New York City slicker like me.

The Wall was magnificent, and a good workout to boot. It is an amazing testament to the will of man given the steep mountains upon which it was built, especially considering when it was built. The sky was able to emerge from the haze of Beijing more, but not completely, and what amazed me most was how much cooler it was inside the stone towers, even though it was 90+ degrees out. It had to be 20+ degrees cooler inside the towers, with open doors and windows (and no air-conditioning). Natural stone underground cellar, anyone?

After a healthy hike and return to Beijing, it was time to return to civilization and drink some Margaux, as civilzed gentlemen are prone to do. We started with an oh so fresh 2006 Pavillon Blanc du Margaux. I must confess I do love this wine, especially from the past few years. I am a closet Sauvignon Blanc fan, often grabbing one by the glass on more casual evenings out. Ok, make that two glasses. One cannot live off Montrachet alone lol. The 2006 jumped from the glass with aromas of grapefruit, grass and sweet melon, penetrating my nose deeply with its minerality and rind edges. There was a pinch of ‘Equal’ to its sweetness, ie a hint of synthetic sugar. I was stunned to find out this was 15.1% alcohol! Gil noted, ‘great power but awesome balance.’ The palate was rich and concentrated, its alcohol more noticeable yet still reined in. Delicious flavors of mineral, straw, honey and grapefruit were present, ‘in a non New Zealand sort of way,’ Gil added, also finding ‘wet limestone.’ It was hailed as ‘one of the best Pavillon Blancs ever,’ and even after having all the reds, this wicked white still held in the glass, mellowing into decadently good gooseberry flavors (93).

Cardboard was the first thing that I noticed in the nose of the 2004 Pavillon Rouge du Margaux, in the best way possible and not in a corked way, I should add. Coffee, roasted nut and cassis were all secondary, with pinches of earth blending into the coffee. Tertiary aromas of cedar and fir spice emerged in this round and tender wine. The palate was earthy with that gout de terroir, possessing candle wax flavors and a very dry finish, typical of the vintage. I remembered this wine being more impressive at the winery, but then again doesn’t it always taste better there? Gil insisted that the white was so good, it knocked down the ’04 a notch or two (88?).

The 1996 Pavillon Rouge du Margaux I enjoyed thoroughly. It was much rounder and fitting in its clothes, so to speak. Gil noted, ‘high-pitched cherry,’ almost reminding him of a young Nebbiolo. Perfumed and sweet, there were hints of fir, cedar and spice. It was much richer in the mouth than the ’04, and its acidity was still special, typical of 1996. Coffee was the first flavor I noticed, followed by more bean, both coffee and green. Round, rich and tasty, this ’96 was in a great spot with its classic flavors in harmony. A hint of raisin crept in with air (91).

A quintet of Margaux itself followed, beginning with the 2004. The 2004 Margaux had ‘berry cobbler,’ per Gil, and he hit it on the head again, as usual, twirling his hammer and popping it back in his holster. Sweet, crumbly, nutty and crusty, I couldn’t get past the berry cobbler thing ”“ that summed it up 100%. The richness of the wine was a different league than the Pavillons. A quadrafecta of rich, concentrated coffee, earth, cassis and nut flavors paid off big-time. Long and regal, this was excellent stuff. Paul admired, ‘the scent of Margaux, subtle and extremely refined”¦combines power and subtlety so harmoniously”¦soft power.’ The nose became more decadent, with coffee and chocolate emerging (94).

The 2001 Margaux had a leaner style about it, with a bit of stink to it, pungent in a cleaning substance way, along with some cinnamon air freshener. I have been enjoying the 2001 vintage, one that certainly delivers, especially given their prices. In addition, some of the Right Bank wines may prove to be more legendary than people think. Back to the ’01, there were also aromas of weed, chocolate, nut and cassis underneath, and it got more and more foresty in the glass, including the floor with some animal leftovers. Its pungency carried over to the palate, where its acidity really stood out, almost too much so with its heat. Flavors of carob, earth and smoked cedar were dominant. Paul conceded that the ‘vintage was not great but still very good,’ admitting that they ‘lost concentration because of harvest rain.’ Gil added that it opened up to ‘caramel and butterscotch aromas,’ which it did (93).

The 1999 Margaux was ‘leaner and not at the level of the previous two,’ per Gil, and I couldn’t disagree. It was more along the lines of ’01 than ’04, if I had to say, with that lean and pungent side where the acidity and ‘cleaner’ came out first. Nut, smoke, smokehouse, tree bark, flint and fireplace joined the aroma party. There were cedary and spicy flavors, but they were thinner and not as long as the others; this was the leanest of the three. There were still good black fruit flavors, and Paul said that the ’99 ‘ has always been one of my favorite vintages to drink and has been good to drink from the day it was born,’ admiring how it just ‘melts in the mouth’ (91).

The 1995 Margaux was impressive. Gil noticed ‘grilled Gruyere cheese and green bean puree.’ I got the Gruyere, but not the green beans, as cinnamon jumped out at me first. Gil also admired its ‘chalky, dusty’ personality, also finding it ‘tight.’ After cinnamon, chocolate took over, and then sawdust took over from there. The palate was spicy and very gritty with lots of minerals. The thickness of its tannins was clearly in another league than anything prior. It was also rusty like 1995s can be, cedary and edgy yet lean and cut like an Olympic athlete. It was very dry and long, and this might get even better in the future. As Paul eloquently summed it up, ‘the finish is like an unfinished story, a great work in progress’ (96+).

Lastly, we had the ‘lucky’ 1988 Margaux, which had a benevolently cheesy nose, with some cinnamon stick on the side. There was nice spice, and it mellowed into a morning cereal sweetness, with carob and cinnamon returning. The ’88 still had good intensity, and it had rust and spice and was even a bit too austere for Gil. It was definitely a whips and chains wine, more intense than most memories I have of ’88 clarets. ‘Old furniture varnish’ rounded out its finish with a touch of cedar (92).

Paul summed up Margaux aptly as ‘charm before strength, like a great woman.’

It was off the airport and back to Hong Kong. It was to be a busy week.