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As I sit here sifting through the hundreds of tasting notes I didn’t get to write up from this past Fall, I think I realize that I have a problem. Not a drinking problem, don’t be stupid .
The problem is that there are so many ‘super’ nights or multiple day extravaganzas on the calendar. Why is that a problem, you may ask. Good question. It’s a problem because I insist to myself that I must write these nights (sss) up, and then I don’t get to them.
So I have a New Year’s resolution, which is to start writing up more of the short stories on a weekly basis, and see if I can get to those big’uns, instead of the other way around. Now that we have the new Acker Weekly format, as well as that new website lurking, Samantha is putting the pressure on me for new content, so here we go. As for old content, get ready for my first book, which will be officially released at the end of the month. I have a lot to say about that, but we’ll save that for later.
As to more official business, my last official great night of 2012 was with a man who needs no introduction, aside from the fact that he’s been on a bit of a hiatus for the past year. I couldn’t think of a better person to ring out any given year than The Don. He has been the beacon of Burgundy for all those that love Pinot Noir as long as I can remember. He has been a great client, a great mentor, and an even better friend. That’s my personal version of a trifecta.
Getting into Things
We started with a 2002 Raveneau Chablis Valmur, as a good bottle of Chablis is almost a pre-requisite when you visit The Don. If you want to experience the best value in the fine and rare world of white wine, go to Chablis, specifically Raveneau and Dauvissat. Ok, Trimbach’s Clos Ste Hune as well. Unfortunately, The Don told me that 2002 happened to be a bad vintage for Chablis after I opened the sucker. This is the thing about Chablis; it doesn’t coincide with the rest of white Burgundy all the time, at least vintage-wise. The Valmur had oyster shells and yeast in its nose, and a palate that was pretty much all waterfall. It was a bit watery, light in its middle (89).
Ok, let’s talk about some wines, Burgundy, of course. The Don has a habit of asking me to go down to the cellar and pick out whatever I want. Three hours later, I emerged again lol. It is always an interesting dilemma when someone asks you to do that, especially when you have the wine he has ‘on premise.
Put this in perspective – this is JUST the White Mags in the Cellar!
The 1990 Niellon Chevalier Montrachet leveled the ship with its wet, tree bark aromas. Smoky and dry, the Niellon had great honey and was ‘punky’ per The Don, referring to and seconding that tree bark. The palate was stony and mossy with nice richness and slate on its finish. This 1990 had excellent acid and mouthfeel, but mature fruit, almost over-mature. Its finish was still youthful, also salty (94).
Dueling 1991s were next, and began with one of the wines of the vintage, the 1991 Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze. Its nose was full of deep rose, chapstick and thick leather pants. There was some natural gas there, but less than usual (I have always found this vintage for Rousseau a touch hindered by perhaps sulfur?) Liqueur of rose, rubber sole and chocolate seeped out of this saucy and decadent red. There was an earthy edge to its palate, which was also saucy and decadent. More rose, citrus smack and grilled nuts rounded out the delicious palate. This was both a Beauty and a Beast (95).
Dueling 1991s
We followed the Rousseau with a ‘jammy’ half-bottle of 1991 Ponsot Clos de la Roche V.V. Its color was noticeably darker. This was ‘a big, hairy animal’ per The Don, and it was broad-shouldered and oily, dark with the color being provided by purple tea leaves. There was more cedar, spice, pepper and ceramics on its palate. If the Rousseau was red, this was black (93).
Bigger is Sometimes Better
The finale was quite grand, it being a 1935 Vogue Musigny. The nose oozed out aromas of brown sugar, ‘praline’ and ‘maple,’ supplemented by hints of autumn and tea. The palate was delicious in this graceful yet vivacious, ancient wonder. The Don noted ‘mint,’ and a whiff of lit match playfully blew by. It kept getting better, gaining this barbecued Lobell’s tastiness. It was like a sexy girl that needed a shower but still smelled good enough. Beautiful and raw (95).
A Different Time
And that was my last official tasting of 2012. A couple of significant events are on the calendar for the next couple days, should be a good start to 2013.
In Vino Veritas,
JK
