Aromas of peonies, plums, red berries, potpourri, warm spices and orange rind introduce de Montille's 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds, a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy wine that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and supple tannins that assert themselves gently on the finish. As usual, this will require some patience. Domaine de Montille's cellars are cold, and élevage is unhurried. These are often among the harder wines to read during my fall barrel tastings. So, this year, I asked winemaker Brian Sieve to instead present some finished 2019s in bottle. The vintage has turned out beautifully, delivering moderate alcohols (up to 13.5%) and terrific concentration in both colors. Fine-boned and elegant, the whites are tightly wound and built to age, and the reds are supple, charming and perfumed.
WA94January 2022
The 2019 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru was showing a little more oak on the nose compared to the Champans. The 100% whole cluster lends some black pepper and clove notes to the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, good density and grip and a bold but balanced, slightly earthy, spicy finish. Good potential but it will need time.
VM94December 2020
This 1.51ha parcel of Taillepieds is located at the top of the hill in gravelly soils. The grapes were entirely fermented as whole clusters and the result is wonderful. Initially somewhat closed, it opens with time to show lovely plummy fruit, with a hidden reserve of floral and garrigue aromas, plus a marked saline character. The texture at this stage is somewhat severe, with firm, slightly austere tannins, but the density suggests it will open up with time. Drinking Window 2022 - 2034.
DC94October 2020